31 



Studies of three cases of propagated swell lead to the conclusions 

 that: (1) swell propagation is linear,, so that trains of swell of 

 different length and period behave independently! (2) waves are pro- 

 pagated with the classical group velocity appropriate to their period 5 

 (3) there is an upper limit to the wave period generated by a wind of 

 given strength, the limit being an increasing function of the wind 

 strength. Interesting features of the paper aid the use of wave 

 propagation diagrams and wave spectra obtained from analysis of sub- 

 surface pressure records- 



"A Critical Wind Speed for Air-Sea Boundary Processes", Walter H. Munk, 

 The Journal of Marine Research, v«6, no. 3, p. 203, 194-7. 



Most processes at the air-sea boundary are modified by the existing 

 wind patterns A number of apparently unrelated processes undergo 

 abrupt changes at a critical wind speed „ The Kelvin-Helmholtz in- 

 stability criterion applied to the air-sea boundary gives instability 

 at about the same critical wind speed „ The application involves the 

 transition from laminar to turbulent flow„ Discussions of applications 

 to sea gull soaring, occurrence of whitecaps, resistance coefficient 

 of the sea surface, and evaporation phenomena are included „ The 

 initial formation of waves and the breaking of waves in the open sea 

 are not treated,, 



"An Elementary Theory of the Land and Sea Breeze Circulation", F. H. 



Schmidt, Journal of Meteorology, v. 4, no . 1, pp„ 9-15, February 1947 < 



The problem of pure land and sea breezes is treated in an element- 

 ary way, pre supposing the existence of a certain atmospheric 

 temperature distribution . The effect of wind distribution on the 

 temperature distribution thus is ignored,, The deflecting force of 

 the earth's rotation is considered, resulting in a finding that 

 the sea breeze does not always blow perpendicular to the coasto 



"The Effect of a Fixed Vertical Barrier on Surface Waves in Deep 

 Fo Ursell, Proc Cambridge Philosophical Society, v«43, pt„3, 

 PP« 374-382, July 1947 . 



iter" , 



The paper reports a theoretical study of the two-dimensional re- 

 flection of surface waves from a vertical barrier in deep water „ 

 Transmission and reflection coefficients for a vertical barrier ex- 

 tending to various depths are derived, and discussion is included 

 of the phase change at a barrier in the surface „ Extension of the 

 method to other positions of the barrier is de scribed 



"Suspended Matter Sampling and Current Observations in the Vicinity of 

 Hunters Point, San Franscisco Bay", J„ A. Putnam, K. Jo Bermel, J. 

 Wo Johnson, TranSo A.G0U0, v. 28, no„5, pp. 742-74-6, October 1947. 



