838 AMAZONIA AND LA PLATA. 



to rank for population as the fourth city of South America. It is well situated 

 on an elevated headland which projects westwards, while to the north the shore- 

 line develops a semi-circular curve round to the Cerro, or " Eminence " in a pre- 

 eminent sense, which rises 486 feet opposite the capital at the entrance to the 

 harbour. Rising in amphitheatrical form on the slopes of the peninsula, Monte 

 Video presents a pleasant seaward aspect, while its terraced houses command a 

 wide prospect of the harbour, semi-circular bay, and distant roadstead. The lower 

 parts, till recently encumbered by the remains of the Spanish fortifications, are 

 now occupied by several fine buildings, such as the exchange, banks, and theatres. 

 Amongst the learned institutions a foremost place is taken by the University, 

 which is well attended, especially by students of law, future politicians and legis- 

 lators of the Republic. 



" A walk through the streets and squares of the capital of Uruguay soon showed 

 us how very difl^erent were these people that we were now among from the 

 Brazilians in every respect. No two cities could be less alike than these two 

 capitals of neighbouring States. Not here the lofty houses of Rio, but clean 

 streets of one-storied glaring white houses, built in the style of a Pompeian dwell- 

 ing. A square, flat-roofed building, with an open courtyard or jmtio, in the 

 centre, on to which all the rooms open ; a fountain and a flower-garden in the 

 patio ; towards the street the windows, if any, small and heavily barred with iron 

 — such is the residence of a South American Spaniard, a retiring sort of dwell- 

 ing, shutting itself jealously from the outer world with a Mussulman-like love of 

 seclusion. The populace, too, how different from that of a Brazilian city ! no 

 negroes here, and no ugly-looking Portuguese ; but handsome and dignified 

 Spaniards, with a good deal of Indian blood in the veins of the lower orders of 

 them. Cleanest of cities is Monte Video, with straight streets cutting each other 

 at right angles in the American chess-board fashion." — {Rumhokl.) 



Since the last century the harbour has greatly shoaled, and is now accessible 

 only to vessels drawing 10 or 12 feet, so that the transatlantic liners have to ride 

 at anchor in the exposed roadstead. But several improvements have been effected, 

 including breakwaters, wharves, repairing docks, and the removal of the 

 quarantine station from Rutas Island in the harbour to Flores Island some 12 

 miles farther east. But the surf still rolls in from the south, and will continue 

 to do so till the money can be found to construct another breakwater farther 

 seawards. 



But despite all the difficult and even dangerous approaches, trade still con- 

 tinues to gravitate towards Monte Video, whose geographical position at the 

 entrance to the Platean regions presents many advantages. As many as twenty 

 lines of steamships touch at this port, where large repairing docks have been 

 constructed at the foot of the Cerro. It has been proposed to create a great 

 harbour in deep water by enclosing the Bay of Buceo some six miles east of Monte 

 Video, although this inlet lies beyond the roadstead. But the plans of the English 

 engineer have been found too costly to be entertained for the present. The 

 project is also vehemently opposed by the merchants who are interested in 



