CONTENTS 



Page 



CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI) 8 



I INTRODUCTION 9 



1. Background 9 



2. Experimental Procedures 10 



3. Subexperiment with H^/L^ = 0.002 11 



4. Scope 11 



II RESULTS 15 



1. Wave Height Variability 15 



2. Profile Surveys 29 



3. Sediment -Size Distribution 64 



4. Breaker Characteristics 79 



5. Water Temperature 82 



III PROFILE DEVELOPMENT AND REFLECTIVITY 82 



1, Profile Development 82 



2. Profile Reflectivity 92 



IV DISCUSSION OF RESULTS 97 



1. Wave Height Variability 97 



2. Profile Equilibrium 98 



3. Other Laboratory Effects 98 



V CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS 99 



1. Conclusions 99 



2. Recommendations 100 



3. Further Analysis 100 



LITERATURE CITED 101 



APPENDIX EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURES FOR 71Y-06 AND 71Y-10 103 



TABLES 



1 Summary of experimental conditions 10 



2 Experimental schedule for experiments 71Y-06 and 71Y-10 12 



3 Data collection schedule within runs for experiments 71Y-06 



and 71Y-10 14 



4 Wave heights during first 10 minutes for experiments 71Y-06 



and 71Y-10 16 



5 Incident wave heights in fixed-bed tanks 17 



6 Incident wave heights in movable-bed tanks 19 



7 Wave heights during first 10 minutes of long waves near 



end of experiment 71Y-06 22 



