A third storm started 23 October 1948 and lasted for four days. 

 Winds were again from the northeast with sustained velocities of 

 4-0 mph, and gusts up to 55 mph. Waves were 12 to 15 feet in height 

 with periods of 10 to 15 secondso A hurricane of strong intensity- 

 passed 300 miles to seaward of the area under study on 31 August 1948, 

 and waves 5 to 6 feet in height were experienced along the Jersey coast 

 as a result. 



Waves and Swells . An examination of all wave data recorded by 

 the Beach Erosion Board's wave gauge during the period of study showed 

 average wave conditions to be as follows; severe storm wave - 12 foot 

 height and 10 second period, moderate storm wave - 6 foot height and 

 8 second period, normal wave - 2 foot height and 6 second period. 



Due to the configuration and bearing of the shore line and the 

 shelter afforded by Long Island, only those open sea swells approaching 

 from the northeast, east, southeast and south affect the area under 

 study. Information, taken from a swell diagram for the ten-year period 

 1932 to 194-2, showed that swells approached the beach from these directions 

 40.6$ of the time; viz. swell heights of 1 to 6 feet - 36.8$, 6 to 12 

 feet - 2.5$, and over 12 feet - 1.3$. 



Winds . Using a wind diagram constructed from wind data obtained 

 by the United States Weather Bureau at Sandy Hook, New Jersey, it was 

 concluded that onshore winds prevail 59$ of the time. 



Characteristics of the Sand 



Seven sets of sand samples, totalling 320 samples, were taken over 

 a five-month period. These were taken at 400 foot intervals, both 

 along the beach and the profiles, to determine the character of the 

 native materials. Mechanical analyses of these sand samples were made 

 at the Beach Erosion Board's laboratory. Four composite samples were 

 subjected to petrographic analysis to ascertain the existence of unique 

 minerals which could be used as tracers. Distinctive criteria were 

 lacking between the dredge, beach and bottom samples; neither geonvetric 

 mean diameter nor mineralogical composition was a satisfactory criterion 

 for determining sand movement in this case. 



Comparative Dump Area Surveys 



During the period 4 May to 27 October 1948, twenty-one surveys of 

 the dump area were made and quantities computed by the end -area method. 

 These computations showed that there had been 125,231 cubic yards or 

 about 21% loss of material from the dumped area during the course of 

 the study. The profiles as run over the dump area showed erosion over 

 nearly all their length with accretion in the lower pockets, probably 

 indicating a flattening of the dump pile. After all dumping had been 

 completed there were three peaks on the dump area. The major material 

 losses occurred on these peaks and on the steeper slopes; particularly 

 on the seaward side. 



