BEACH EROSION LITERATURE 



There are listed below some recent acquisitions to the Board's library 

 which are considered to be of general interest « Copies of these publications 

 can be obtained on 30-day loan, by interested official agencies, 



"First Progress Report on Tidal Flow in EntranceSj the Velocity Distribution 

 at the Entrance ^»» John Lo French^ National Bureau of Standards^ June 1951 



This report applies the methods of potential theory to the 

 problem of determining the velocities in the approaches to a 

 canal connecting an ocean with a lagoon or bay. Entrances with 

 and without jetties extending into the ocean are considered » 

 The streamlines are determined and the velocities along the 

 streamline are given in a form suitable for simple application 

 to engineering problemSo 



"•Some Observations of the Velocity Profile Near the Sea Floor |' Ro Mo Lesser^ 

 April 1951 



Observations of the current speed at four levels near the 

 sea floor in shallow water show that the velocity profile 

 follows a logarithmic curve » Conditions of rough and smooth 

 turbulence are found to exist. 



"The Damping Action of Submerged Breakwaters'* University of California, 

 HE-II6-322, April I95I0 



The results of an experimental investigation on the damping 

 action of submerged rectangular breakwater is presented „ The' 

 experimental data also are compared with published theories « 

 A new theory is presented which compares more favorably with 

 the experiirents than the previous theories,, Also given is a 

 summary of all available published theoretical and experimental 

 information on the damping action of tropezoidal triangular 

 breakwaters, reefs of various configurations ^ and plane 

 barriers of various orientations o 



"The Generation and Decay of Wind Waves in Deep Water ,»» University of 

 California^ Co Le Bretschneider, August 195lp 



This paper presents the analysis and incorporation of data 

 collected by the University of California on the generation 

 and decay of wind-generated gravity waves and the original 

 data presented in HoOo Pubo NOo 6OI0 These data are analyzed 

 and the results presented in dimensionless graphs suitable 

 for use in wave fore casting » 



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