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(8) Iverson, H. W, , R. C. Crooke, M. J, Larocco and R, L. Vifiegel, 



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(12) Beach Erosion Board, A Study of Progressive Oscillatory Waves in 



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(14) Stoker, J. J., "The Formation of Breakers and Bores',' Communications 



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(15) Stoker, J. J., "The Breaking of Waves in Shallow Water i" Annals of 



the New York Academy of Sciences , Vol. 51, Art, 3, tfey 1949 « 



(16) Lamb, H., Hydrodynamics , Sixth Edition, Cambridge University Press, 



1932, p. 366. 



(17) Lamb, H., ibid, p. 369. 



17 



