Shspard, Francis P., and D, L, Innian, Nearshore Circulation, Proc. of 

 First Conf. on Coastal Engineering, Long Beach, Calil'., Oct. 1950. 

 Chapter 5, SUD Submarine Geology Report No. 14-, reprints distributed 

 as SIO Reference 51-53., 15 December 1951. 



Article Submitted for Publicaticai 



Inraan, 0. L., 'leasures for Describing the Size ULstribution of -ijediiaenbs, 

 flO Submfi.rine Geology Report No. 15, (revised), Journ . Sed» Petr. 



Mimeographed Report 



Innan, D. L., Measures for Describing the Size Distribution of Sediments, 

 SlO Submarine Geolcgy Report No. 15, (revised), SIO Reference 51-4,6, 

 7 November 1951. 



III. New York University Bi-monthly Progress ReT3ort, 4- tfarch 1952 



1. A paper entitled "A Unified Mathematical Theory for the Analysis 

 Propagation, and Refraction of Storm Generated Ocean Surface Waves," 

 Part 1, has been prepared. Since the paper is sponsored jointly by 

 the Office of Naval Research and the Beach Erosion Board, requests from 

 interested persons outside the United States should be sent to New York 

 University. Upon approval by the Office of Naval Research, copies will 

 then be forwarded to them. 



The paper applies superior methods of wave analysis to the problem. 

 It permits Quantitative values of the power spectrum and quantitative fore- 

 casts of sea and swell properties. 



Part 1 covers only the theory of wave analysis and vave forecasting. 

 The theory of rrave refraction and some examples 110.11 be given in Part 2 

 Trtiich is in preparation. 



2, It is planned to present some of the results obtained at the spring 

 meetings of the American Geophysical Union in 'Jashington, D. G. 



41 



