BEACH EROSION LITERATURE 



There are listed below some recent acquisitions to the Board's library 

 which are considered to be of general intsresto Copies of these publications 

 can be obtained on 30-day loan by interested official agencies, 



"Ifeasureinent of Ocean Waves," R. Go Folsome , Trans » American Geophysical 

 Union, Vol„ 30 ^ Noo 5, October 1949 



Laboratory and field investigations demonstrate that theoretical 

 pressure ratios for pressure wave recorders are correct to within ten 

 to 20 per cento The theoretically corrected measured wave heights 

 in shallow water are lowo The University of California Mark III and 

 liiark V wave recorders are described and typical records from the latter 

 are reproduced „ The limitations of the available information on spar 

 buoy damping disc systems for deep water wave raeasurenents are 

 summarized o 



"Ifydrodynamic Forces on a Rough Wall," Hans Albert Einstein, Review of 

 Modern Physics , Volo 21, NOo 3s July 194-9 » 



The dynamic forces which a turbulent flow exerts on the 

 individual protrusions of a rough wall have been measured„ It was 

 found that even in the case of an extremely high relative roughness, 

 the drag force on tte protrusions may be determined from the logarithmic 

 friction lawso A very significant lift force which tends to pull the 

 the protrusions away from the wall and into the flow was neasured. 

 This lift force was divided into two parts j, A constant average value 

 and a random fluctuation superimposed over the average o A careful 

 statistical analysis showed that the frequency of different pressures 

 or lift forces at tte wall follows very accurately the normal error 

 lawo This fact seems to indicate that in the description of turbulence 

 near a rough wall^ the pressures must be regarded as tte primary 

 influence, not the velocities o 



"Scale Effects in Hydraulic Models Involving Wave Motion," Jo W„ Johnson, 

 Trans o, American .jeophysical Union, Volo 30, Noo Us August 194-9 » 



A summary of the various instances where wave theories have been 

 verified experimentally is presented bri3fly„ A more detailed dis- 

 cussion is given for those problems wtere models built to several 

 scales have permitted an evaluation of the effect of scale in tte 

 application of data from hydraulic models o 



"An Analysis of Data From Wave Recorders on the Pacific Coast of tte United 

 States," Ro Lo Wiegel, Trans o American Geophysical Union, Vole 30, Noo 5, 

 October 1949 o 



The wave heights and period from wave recorders installed off 

 Point Sur, California, and Hecta Head, Oregon, have been compared for 

 the period from April 1947 to June 194-8 o These data, together with some 

 obtained at Point Arguello, California, showed that the ratio of the 



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