CONTENTS 



Page 



CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI) 9 



I INTRODUCTION 11 



1. Background 11 



2. LEBS Reports 11 



3. Scope 12 



II WAVE HEIGHT VARIABILITY 13 



1. Definition of Terms 15 



2. Variations in Wave Reflection 17 



3. Variations in Incident Wave Height 44 



III EQUILIBRIUM PROFILES 50 



1. Definitions and Importance of Equilibrium Profiles .... 50 



2. Effect of Initial Profile Slope 51 



3. Effect of Wave Period 51 



IV LABORATORY EFFECTS ' 75 



1. Definitions of Terms 75 



2. Test Length and Initial Slope Effects 75 



3. Tank Width Effects 79 



4. Water Temperature Effects 107 



5. Other Laboratory Effects 119 



V CONCLUSIONS 119 



1. Wave Height Variability 119 



2. Profile Equilibrium 122 



3. Laboratory Effects 122 



VI RECOMMENDATIONS FOR CONDUCTING MOVABLE-BED COASTAL EXPERIMENTS. 123 



1. Modeling Criterion 123 



2. Tank Setup and Test Conditions 123 



3. Future Investigation 124 



LITERATURE CITED 125 



TABLES 



1 Summary of experimental conditions 12 



2 Average reflection coefficient and limits of values in each 



LEBS experiment 17 



3 Summary of profile development in experiment 72C-10 21 



4 Summary of profile development in experiment 70X-06 23 



5 Summary of profile development in experiment 70X-10 26 



6 Summary of profile development in experiment 71Y-06 28 



