CONTENTS 



Page 



CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SIJ 7 



I INTRODUCTION 9 



II GENERAL PROCEDURES 10 



1. Facilities 10 



2. Experiment Schedule 10 



3. Records 16 



4. Profile Construction 16 



5. Profile Protection 16 



III WATER LEVEL CONTROL 18 



1. Necessity 18 



2. Procedure for Establishing Control 18 



5. Procedure for Maintaining Control 18 



4. Problems Encountered 18 



5. Water Depth 21 



IV WAVE GENERATOR OPERATION 21 



1. Experimental Setup 21 



2. System Components 21 



3. Wave Period Control 25 



4. Wave Period 26 



5. Problems Encountered in Operation 26 



6. Generator Stroke 27 



V WAVE HEIGHT DATA 27 



1. Data Collection 27 



2. Data Reduction 31 



VI SURVEY DATA 34 



1. Data Collection 34 



2. Data Reduction 41 



VII BREAKER AND RUNUP DATA 41 



1. Data Collection 41 



2. Analysis of Breaker Data 42 



VIII RIPPLE FORMATION DATA 42 



IX SAND SAMPLES 42 



1. Collection 42 



2. Size Analysis 42 



X WATER TEMPERATURE AND CURRENT DATA 43 



1. Water Temperature 43 



2. Current Data 45 



