CONTENTS 



Page 



CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI) 8 



I INTRODUCTION 9 



1. Background 9 



2. Experimental Procedures 11 



3. Scope 12 



II RESULTS 12 



1. Wave Heigiat Variability 12 



2. Profile Surveys 22 



3. Sediment-Size Distribution 62 



4. Breaker Characteristics 65 



5. Water Temperature 65 



III PROFILE DEVELOPMENT AND REFLECTIVITY 70 



1. Profile Development 70 



2. Profile Reflectivity 76 



IV DISCUSSION OF RESULTS 78 



1. Wave Height Variability 78 



2. Profile Equilibrium 82 



3. Other Laboratory Effects 82 



V CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS 83 



1. Conclusions 83 



2. Recommendations 84 



LITERATURE CITED 85 



APPENDIX EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURES FOR 70X-06 AND 70X-10 87 



TABLES 



1 Summary of experimental conditions H 



2 Experimental schedule for experiments 70X-06 and 70X-10 13 



3 Data Collection schedule within runs for experiments 70X-06 and 



70X-10 15 



4 Wave heights during first 10 minutes for experiments 7QX-06 and 



70X-10 16 



5 Incident wave height for experiments 70X-06 and 70X-10 18 



6 Reflection coefficient versus time data for experiments 70X-06 



and 70X-10 19 



