such as; What is the relationship between the wave components 

 height, period, steepness, angle of attack) and littoral flow of sand? 

 To what depth of water does the sand move? What is the relationship 

 between longshore sand movement and offshore-onshore sand movement? 

 What is the influence of sand size and density on littoral transport? 

 How can sand flow be estimated if all wind, wave and current data are 

 known? A major objective of this study is to secure all possible infor- 

 mation which may throw some light on the solution of these and other 

 problems o 



Santa Barbara is a logical site for the investigation of littoral 

 transport on several scores- 



a. Complex as the conditions are, they represent a great simplifica- 

 tion of an open coast situation. Santa Barbara may be regarded as a large 

 scale model in which variables are held to a minimum. Y«ave direction, 

 with the exception of one or two southeasterly storms a jrear, is nearly 

 always at 235° (SW). Winds are held within 180° by the high Santa 



Ynez range nearbyj velocities greater than 15 knots are unusual and 

 direction is reasonably constant for any given time of day. This leaves 

 the wave characteristics (which would be the variable in a model ex- 

 periment) the principal unknown. 



b. Santa Barbara is unique in that it is both easy and necessary 

 (for dredging purposes) to measure the quantity of littoral drift. It 

 appears evident that all sand moving along the coast is trapped in a 

 small area of the harbor and average rates of flow between surveys 



are easily determined. 



c. Santa Barbara is similar to a large part of the coast of 

 southern California which is highly developed and which has similar 

 sand problems. Presumably any solutions or explanations which are 

 usable at Santa Barbara are valid, by extension, at Ventura, Hueneme, 

 Santa Monica and other nearly areas. 



d. There is immediate economic pressure for obtaining a specific 

 solution to the problems locally. This amounts to about $60,000 per 

 year for dredging plus an iunestimated value of inconvenience to the 

 users of the harbor. Several changes in the shape and layout of the 

 breakwater and harbor have been suggested by various agencies; these 

 have not been completely evaluated as yet, partly because of a dearth 

 of information on the movement of the sand. 



e. The beaches are constant in several important respects. 

 They seem to have a common source of sand; exposure to waves is about 

 the same, and beach slopes are reasonably constant. 



The major variables $11 can be measured and are controlled by the 

 physical circumstances. The problem than, is to correlate the 

 specific causes and effects that are measured and to attempt to arrive 



11 



