e. Waves need to be hindcast for the several stated periods eo 

 that past sand flow data will be comparable on a cause-and-effect basis 

 with waves. 



f „ Other surveys which would be of value are (1) check surveys on 

 the various profiles under study, especially at the feeder beach, (2) 

 surveys of beaches much further to the west (near Pt. Conception), 

 (3) pump probings to determine thickness of sand at westerly beaches 

 which may be a major source of sand supply. 



g. The nature of the bottom off Point Arguello and the possibility 

 that sand is moving around the point in 60 feet of water should be ex- 

 plored. 



WAVE RECORDERS AND WAVE DA TA 



For the past few years a number of wave recorders have been in- 

 stalled and operated along the Pacific Coast more or less continuously 

 by various institutions and government agencies. The University of 

 California, Berkeley, in cooperation with the U. S. Navy, instituted 

 a program of wave recording at Several points along the Pacific Coast 

 in 194-7 o Charts from these records have been analyzed for the sig- 

 nificant wave height and the wave period. Wave direction also was 

 determined in some instances from synoptic weather charts by the wave 

 forecasting method. These various data were summarized in tabular 

 form and distributed to various individuals, commercial concerns, and 

 government agencies that were interested in this type of information,. 

 In a limited number of cases summaries of wave data have been pub- 

 lished. (1) (2) 



As part of this contract with the Beach Erosion Board the various 

 wave recorders previously installed in cooperation with the Navy were 

 maintained in operation and the records analyzed for the significant 

 height and period. Because of the limited funds available for this 

 phase of the study no purchase of recording equipment, cable, and off- 

 shore pressure elements was possible^ hence, as an offshore unit be- 

 came inoperative and required replacement the station was discontinued. 



Stations that once were in operation included Heceta Ifead, Oregonj 

 Pt. Pinos, California 5 Pt„ Sur, California; Pt. Arguello, California j 

 and Santa Barbara, California. A summary of dates for which wave data 



(1) An Analysis of Data from Recorders on the Pacific Coast of the U.S. 

 by Re, L. Wiegel, Trans. Amer. Geoph. Union, Vol. 30, No. 5, 1949 



(2) Southern Swell Observed at Oceanside, California from May through 

 September, 1949 . s by R. L. Wiegel and H„ L. Kimberleyj Trans. Amer. 

 Geoph. Union (in press). 



15 



