DEVELOPMENTS IN THE SCIENCE OF COASTAL ENGINEERING 



by 



Captain Peter Somers^ Executive Officer,,, 

 Beach Erosion Boards Corps of Engineers 



Geologists tell us that the approximate age of the earth is somewhat 

 more than two billion years^ and that during the early part of that time^ 

 in response to the pull of the sun the molten liquids of the earth's sur- 

 face rolled around the globe and that its atmosphere contained much hydro- 

 geno Unlike the sun and her sister planets,, our small globe had not enough 

 gravitational pull to retain the light and fast moving hydrogen molecules, 

 ■with the result that in a few thousand years, most of them had dispersed 

 into space 5 and the remainder combined with oxygen to form water vapor o 



As the atmosphere cooled further the -water vapor began to condense,, 

 probably at first to be on the night-shaded side of the eartho Further cool- 

 ing permitted the patches of condensed water to spread and increase in volume, 

 Based on the same theory ^ it is further believed that when the patches of 

 condensed water became permanent 3 the first ocean iras born. 



We are also told that the ocean contains an untold wealth of minerals 

 including silver ani gold^ which can actually be our'S if we can determine 

 how the sea can be made to yield its riches. 



This promise of good fortune however is of little comfort to the many 

 states^ communities and individuals who find this very same ocean unleashing 

 with terrific fury its damaging forces against their worldy possessions,, 

 the land adjoining the ocean and the structures provided to prevent the land 

 from eroding o Erosion is a natural agency which down through the ages has 

 been causing continual changes in land levels and shore lines o 



The history of any shore line is one of continual mobility and change,, 

 molded and remolded by the forces in breaking waveso Where shores are unde- 

 velopedj variations in the beach are not considered too important to local 

 interests^ and recession of the shore line and nethods of preventing such 

 recession are of little concerno The problem becomes more acute however,, 

 when intense development crowds the shore,, and property owners become aware 

 of the forces of nature » Tifhen the ocean begins to lap at their doors a 

 loud cry for immediate protection is raised o 



The United States possess more than 20<,000 miles of tidal shore line 

 (besides the shore of innumerable lakes and rivers) which include a large 

 number of beach areas of more than local significance. Such beach areas 

 are the popular holiday resorts of the nation. The habit of going to the 

 sea shore is so firmly established as a means of healthful recreation that 

 extensive developnent has resulted on many of the beach areas near popula- 

 tion centers c 



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