Table 1 Variables Used in Analysis of Interactions of Beach-Ocean-Atmosphere 



System. (See Appendix A for Descriptions and Units Used. ) 



Symbol Dimensions 



Variable Description 



LT' 



LT" 



LT 



1-1 



Depth of water at wave breaking 



Velocity of tidal current 



Velocity of tidal cixrrent flowing opposite to longshore 

 ctirrent 



Velocity of tidal current flowing in same direction as 

 longshore current 



Depth of water table at top of uprush 



Still-water depth 



Height of breaking wave 



Height of wave (expressed as deep-water height) 



Wave steepness of wave (expressed as deep-water wave) 



Net deposition at lower foreshore stations in 2U. 5-hour 

 period 



Wet erosion at lower foreshore stations in 2^. 5-hour period 



Wave length (expressed as length in deep water) 



Average mean nominal grain diameter over bottom in 

 shoaling-wave zone 



Range of tide over one tidal cycle 



Mean slope of lower foreshore of beach 



Mean slope of beach over inner portion of shoaling- 

 wave zone 



Wave period 



Mean wind velocity directed against the longshore current 



Mean wind velocity in an offshore direction 



Mean wind velocity in an onshore direction 



Mean wind velocity parallel to shore 



Mean wind velocity in same direction as longshore current 



Mean velocity of longshore current 



Angle of wave approach 



Rate of rise of still-water level 



Rate of fall of still-water level 



Water density 



D 



L 



h 



L 



Hb 



L 



Ho 



L 



Ho/Lo 







Jf 



L 



Kf 



L 



Lo 



L 



(Kh 



L 



R 



L 



Sf 







Ss 







T 



T 



Ua 



LT-1 



Uof 



LT-^ 



Uon 



LT-1 



Up 



-1 

 LT 



Us 



-1 

 LT 



V 



LT-1 



a 







Tlr 



LT"-'- 



Tlf 



LT-^ 



p 



ml"^ 



