Bd 



Depth of Water at Wave Breaking 



The average vertical distance, in feet and hundredths, from the 

 water surface immediately in front of a breaking wawe to the bottom. This 

 is an average of ten measurements, recorded four times each day. Values 

 used ranged from 0.35 to 3.8O feet. 



Tidal- current Velocity, C; Opposed to Longshore Current, 



Co; And in Same Direction as Longshore Current, Cg. 



The mean tidal- current velocity was measured one meter above the 

 bottom at a point 85O feet from shore. A Price current meter was used, 

 and measured or interpolated values were expressed to hundredths of feet 

 per second. The respective ranges of values used were: C=0.00 to 0.68 ft/sec, 

 Co=0.00 to 0.66 ft/sec, and Cs=0.00 to O.36 ft/sec. Some tidal-current- 

 velocity values were estimated from a relationship established between the 

 tidal range and the tidal-cvirrent velocity at the point. 



D 



Depth of Water Table at Top of Uprush 



The depth to the water table at the top of the swash line was 

 measured to feet and tenths four times -daily. Values used ranged from 

 0.01 to 1.83 feet. 



Still-water Depth 



The still -water depth was determined from tide-gage data. The values 

 used aire for the depth from the still -water surface to the mid-point of the 

 slope (fig. 3) in the shoaling-wave zone that was investigated for changes 

 in inclination and sediment size. Values used in the analyses ranged from 

 10.6 to 16.1 feet. 



Hb 

 Height of Breaking Wave 



The breaker height was measured directly with a graduated rod and 

 was taken as the average trough- to- crest distance of ten successive break- 

 ing waves. Breaker heights were measured four times daily. Values used 

 in the analyses ranged from O.69 to k.^0 feet. 



58 



