Ho 

 Deep-water Wave Height (Significant) 



Wave-height values were determined from wave-spectrum-analyzer re- 

 cords furnished by the Boastal Engineering Research Center^ as they were 

 obtained from the relay- type wave gage in 20 feet of water at the end of 

 the 15th Street pier. The peak value on the linear- average curve for wave 

 heights of the dominant wave train was mtiltiplied by 2.22. This was done 

 because J. M. Caldwell had found (written communication, I963) the follow- 

 ing relationship in a study of 92 simiiltaneous wave recordings made by 

 both magnetic-tape arid paper-tape methods: 



Average height on analyzer record _q k,- 

 Significant height on chart record 



Height values were converted to deep-water ones by entering tables. Thus 

 conversion to deep-water wave height values did not involve consideration 

 of wave refraction or special shoaling effects. Values for deep-water 

 significant wave heights ranged frcm O.56 to 12.97 feet. The absolute 

 validity of the wave-height values so determined is not of importance, as 

 all that was needed was a consistently objectively-determined measure of 

 this variable. 



Ho/Lo 

 Deep-water Wave Steepness 



Values of wave steepness, expressed in terms of the ratio for deep- 

 water waves Hq/Lo, rajiged from 0.00100 to O.O7226. 



Wet Deposition at Lower Foreshore Stations 



in Previous 24.5-hour Period 



Net deposition was determined from measTired changes in altitude of 

 stations occupied on successive days at low tide. Wet deposition was 

 measured over a distance of 125 feet, or at six stations (fig. 3^ 4) at 

 15th Street and at five stations (rig. h) at the Camp Pendleton property 

 line. Values used ranged from 0.00 to I.50 feet. 



Kf 



Net Erosion at Lower Foreshore Stations 



in Previous 2U. 5-hour Period 



The net erosion was deteraiined in a like manner to that of the 

 increment of deposition, J^. Values used ranged from 0.00 to I.30 feet. 



59 



