University is also examining wave data collected during sea breezes (SonUj 

 et al., 1973) . 



This study describes the effect of sea breeze on the coastal wave 

 climate, as delineated by several years of visual wave observations in 

 the different geographic regions and latitudes of the United States, and 

 correlates the variations in wave height and period to the coastal expo- 

 sure and geographic features of various observation stations. 



II. WAVE DATA 



Most of the wave data in this study were visual observations from 

 a cooperative effort of the U.S. Coast Guard and the Coastal Engineering 

 Research Center (CERC) (Cooperative Surf Observation Program, COSOP) . 

 Exceptions were the visual observations from Crystal Beach Pier in Destin, 

 Florida, and Grayton, Florida. The data were handwritten on forms by the 

 observers and then transferred to cards and magnetic tapes. The names, 

 locations, and dates of record for the COSOP stations are shown in Figure 1. 

 COSOP data collected before January 1955 or after December 1965 were not 

 used in this study. 



Wave height, direction, period, and breaker-type were reported as 

 frequently as every 4 hours from COSOP stations along the Pacific, gulf, 

 and Atlantic coasts (Darling, 1968) . Wave heiglxt is reported to the 

 nearest foot, and period is reported as the time (seconds) it takes for 

 11 breaker crests to pass a point. 



Previous examination of COSOP data has resulted in the conclusion 

 that the data are consistent with known climatological conditions, and 

 internally consistent in that most neighboring stations with similar 

 exposure produce about the same average values of the variables (Galvin, 

 et al., 1969; Galvin, Tenney, and Seelig, 1970). However, individual 

 observations at most stations may be questionable, and at some stations 

 the mean values appear to be wrong. COSOP statistics in the form of 

 monthly and yearly means by station were compiled by Galvin and Seelig 

 (1969) . 



The wave data from Crystal Beach Pier and Grayton State Park were 

 taken twice daily by volunteer observers. Wave height from these two 

 locations was estimated to the nearest one-half foot. 



III. VARIATIONS BY MONTH AND LOCALITY 



Monthly averages of height were used to calculate a ratio, D., which 

 is defined as : 



D. = ^i. (1) 



