CONTENTS 



CHAPTER 1 



INTRODUCTION TO COASTAL ENGINEERING 



Page 



I OVERVIEW OF COASTAL ENGINEERING AND THE SPM 1-1 



II THE COASTAL AREA 1-2 



III THE BEACH AND NEARSHORE SYSTEM 1-4 



1. The Sea 1-4 



2 . The Beach and Nearshore Zone 1-7 



IV DYNAMIC BEACH RESPONSE TO THE SEA 1-9 



1 . Normal Beach Response 1-9 



2. Beach Response to Storms 1-10 



3. Beach and Dune Recovery from Storm Attack 1-13 



4. Littoral Transport 1-13 



5. Effect of Inlets on Barrier Beaches 1-14 



6. Beach Stability 1-15 



V CAUSES OF SHORELINE EROSION 1-15 



1. Natural Causes 1-15 



2 . Man- Induced Causes 1-16 



VI COASTAL PROTECTION METHODS AND NAVIGATION WORKS 1-17 



VII CONSERVATION OF SAND 1-25 



LITERATURE CITED 1-27 



TABLES 



1-1 Causes of coastal erosion 1-16 



FIGURES 



1-1 Visual definition of terms describing a typical beach profile 1-2 



1-2 Large waves breaking over a breakwater 1-5 



1-3 Wave characteristics 1-5 



1-4 Undeveloped barrier island on the gulf coast of Alabama after 



Hurricane Frederic 1-8 



1-5 Developed barrier island, Atlantic City, New Jersey 1-9 



1-6 Sand dunes on Padre Island, Texas 1-11 



1-7 Sand dunes at Nauset Spit, Cape Cod, Massachusetts 1-11 



1-8 Schematic diagram of storm wave attack on beach and dune 1-12 



1-9 Littoral barrier, Ocean City Inlet, Maryland 1-18 



1-10 Damage after the 1962 storm, Rehoboth Beach, Delaware 1-20 



1-11 Undermining of structures by storm waves, Potham Beach, Maine 1-21 



1-12 Beach restoration, Dade County, Florida 1-22 



1-13 Weir jetty at Murrells Inlet, South Carolina, 1981 1-25 



