Portland Cement Association) j 



Figure 1-2. Large waves breaking over a breakwater. 



Wind waves, which are also known as oscillatory waves, are usually defined 

 by their height, length, and period (see Fig. 1-3). Wave height is the ver- 

 tical distance from the top of the crest to the bottom of the trough. Wave- 

 length is the horizontal distance between successive crests. Wave period is 

 the time between successive crests passing a given point. As waves propagate 

 in deep water, only the waveform and part of the energy move forward; the 

 water particles move in a nearly circular path. 



Direction of Wove Trove! 



Wove Crest 



Crest Length ^ 



Region 



Wove Trougti 



— — Trougti Lengtfi— «— I 



Region d = Deptti 



Stiliwoter Level 



Oceon Bottom- 



Figure 1-3. Wave characteristics. 



1-5 



