CONTENTS 



CHAPTER 2 



MECHANICS OF WAVE MOTION 



Page 

 I INTRODUCTION 2-1 



II WAVE MECHANICS 2-1 



1. General 2-1 



2. Wave Fundamentals and Classification of Waves 2-3 



3. Elementary Progressive Wave Theory (Small-Amplitude Wave 



Theory) 2-6 



4. Higher Order Wave Theories 2-31 



5. Stokes' Progressive, Second-Order Wave Theory 2-34 



6 . Cnoidal Waves 2-44 



7. Solitary Wave Theory 2-55 



8. Stream-Function Wave Theory 2-59 



III WAVE REFRACTION 2-60 



1 . Introduction 2-60 



2. General — Refraction by Bathymetry 2-62 



IV WAVE DIFFRACTION 2-75 



1 . Introduction 2-75 



2. Diffraction Calculations 2-77 



3. Refraction and Diffraction Combined 2-109 



V WAVE REFLECTION 2-109 



1. General 2-109 



2. Reflection from Impermeable, Vertical Walls (Linear Theory) ... .2-112 



3. Reflections in an Enclosed Basin 2-113 



4. Wave Reflection from Plane Slopes, Beaches, Revetments, and 



Breakwaters 2-116 



5. Wave Reflection from Bathymetric Variation 2-122 



6. Refraction of Reflected Waves 2-124 



VI BREAKING WAVES 2-129 



1 . Deep Water 2-129 



2 . Shoaling Water 2-129 



LITERATURE CITED 2-137 



BIBLIOGRAPHY 2-147 



TABLES 



2-1 Distribution of wave heights in a short train of waves 2-30 



2-2 Example computations of values of C,/C2 for refraction analysis 2-68 



2-3 a_ correction factor for multiple layers of armor units 2-121 



