CONTENTS— Con t inued 



FIGURES 



Page 

 2-1 Approximate distribution of ocean surface wave energy illustrating 

 the classification of surface waves by wave band, primary dis- 

 turbing force, and primary restoring force 2-5 



2-2 Definition of terms — elementary, sinusoidal, progressive wave 2-8 



2-3 Local fluid velocities and accelerations 2-14 



2-4 Water particle displacements from mean position for shallow-water 



and deepwater waves 2-17 



2-5 Formation of wave groups by the addition of two sinusoids having 



different periods 2-24 



2-6 Summary of linear (Airy) wave theory — wave characteristics 2-32 



2-7 Regions of validity for various wave theories 2-33 



2-8 Comparison of second-order Stokes' profile with linear profile 2-40 



2 

 2-9 Cnoidal wave surface profiles as a function of k. 2-47 



2 

 2-10 Cnoidal wave surface profiles as a function of k 2-48 



2-11 Relationship between k^, H/d, and T /g/d 2-49 



2-12 Relationships between k^ and L^H/d^ 2-50 



2-13 Relationships between k^ and L^H/d^ and between (y^-d)/E, 



(y^-d)/H + 1 and L^H/d^ 2-51 



2-14 Relationship between T /gTd yj./d, H/y^, and L^H/d^ 2-52 



2-15 Relationship between C//gy , H/yj., and L^H/d^ 2-53 



2-16 Functions M and N in solitary wave theory 2-58 



2-17 Wave refraction at Westhampton Beach, Long Island, New York 2-61 



2-18 Refraction template 2-65 



2-19 Changes in wave direction and height due to refraction on slopes, 



with straight, parallel depth contours 2-67 



2-20 Use of the refraction template 2-69 



2-21 Refraction of diagram using R/J method 2-70 



2-22 Use of fan-type refraction diagram 2-72 



