CONTENTS 



FIGURES — Continued 



Page 

 2-64 Definition of wave reflection terms 2-117 



2-65 Wave reflection coefficients for slopes, beaches, and rubble- 

 mound breakwaters as a function of the surf similarity 

 parameter E, 2-1 18 



2-66 Correction factor a^ , due to slope roughness and the extent 



of wave breaking at the toe of a structure 2-120 



2-67 Wave reflection coefficients for smooth steps, Ji/(d^ + d2) " 6 



and £/(di + d2) == 12 2-123 



2-68 Wave reflection coefficients for sinusoidal underwater bars with 



L/£ = 2.0 2-125 



2-69 Definition sketch of trapped wave rays 2-127 



2-70 Solution of equations for trapped reflected waves with angle a 



shown in degrees 2-128 



2-71 Wave of limiting steepness in deep water 2-129 



2-72 Breaker height index versus deepwater wave steepness, H /gT 2-131 



2-73 Dimensionless depth at breaking versus breaker steepness 2-132 



2-74 Spilling breaking wave 2-133 



2-75 Plunging breaking wave 2-133 



2-76 Surging breaking wave 2-134 



2-77 Collapsing breaking wave.... 2-134 



