y^. = 0.865 H + d 

 Yj, = 0.865(1) + 3 = 0.865 + 3 = 3.865 ni (12.68 ft) 



Also from Figure 2-13, 



(y, - d) 



- + 1 = 0.865 



H 

 thus, 



Yt = (0.865 - 1)(1) + 3 = 2.865 m (9.40 ft) 



(d) The dimensionless wave profile is given in Figure 2-9 and is approxi- 

 mately the one drawn for k^ = 1 - 10"^. The results obtained in (c) 

 above can also be checked by using Figure 2-9. For the wave profile 

 obtained with k^ = 1 - 10~^ , it is seen that the SWL is approximately 

 0.14 H above the wave trough or 0.86 H below the wave crest. 



The results for the wave celerity determined under (b) above can now be 

 checked with the aid of Figure 2-15. Calculate 



H (1) 



= 0.349 



y 2.865 

 t 



Entering Figure 2-15 with 



and 



it is found that 



l2h 



-^- = 290 



— = 0.349 

 ^t 



— = 1.126 



Therefore, 



Viy7 



C = 1.126 V(9.8)(2.865) = 5.97 m/s (19.57 ft/s) 



The difference between this number and the 5.90 meters per second (18.38 

 ft/s) calculated under (b) above is the result of small errors in reading 

 the curves. 



*************************************** 

 7. Solitary Wave Theory. 



Waves considered in the previous sections were oscillatory or nearly 

 oscillatory waves. The water particles move backward and forward with the 



2-55 



