CONTENTS— Cont inued 



TABLES 



Page 

 3-1 Classes of commonly used wave height parameters 3-15 



3-2 Deepwater wave forecasting equation 3-48 



3-3 Tidal ranges 3-92 



3-4 Fluctuations in water levels, Great Lakes System (1900 



through 1977) 3-96 



3-5 Maximum deviations from mean lake levels 3-97 



3-6 Highest and lowest water levels 3-116 



FIGURES 



3-1 Sample wave records — (a) Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel, Portal 

 Island, significant height 1.7 meters, period 4 seconds; 

 (b) Huntington Beach, California, significant height 1.7 meters, 

 period 8 seconds 3-3 



3-2 Waves in a coastal region 3-4 



3-3 Theoretical and observed wave height distributions 3-7 



3-4 Theoretical and observed wave height distributions 3-8 



3-5 Theoretical wave height distributions 3-9 



3-6 Typical wave spectra from the Atlantic coast 3-13 



3-7 Dimensionless wave profiles for the 40 cases 3-16 



3-8 Theoretical and observed relationship between height and standard 

 deviation of sea-surface elevations as a function of relative 

 water depth 3-17 



3-9 Observed and hindcasted significant wave heights versus time, 

 December 1959, at and near the weather station J in the 

 north Atlantic 3-22 



3-10 Corps of Engineers numerical wave model results 3-23 



3-11 Atmospheric boundary layer over waves 3-25 



3-12 Duration of the fastest mile windspeed as a function of 



windspeed 3-28 



3-13 Ratio of windspeed of any duration, Ua , to the 1-hour wind- 

 speed , U3gQQ 3-29 



3-14 Amplification ratio, R^ , accounting for effects of air-sea 



temperature difference 3-31 



3-15 Ratio, R-, , of windspeed over water, U,, , to windspeed over 



land, Ut , as a function of windspeed over land, Ut 3-31 



3-16 Surface synoptic chart for 0030Z, 27 October 1950 3-36 



3-17 Sample ploted report 3-37 



