CONTENTS — Continued 



Page 

 4-16 Smoothed frequency of landfalling tropical storms and 



hurricanes (1871 through 1973) for the gulf and east coasts 



of the United States 4-35 



4-17 Mean monthly nearshore wave heights for five coastal segments 4-38 



4-18 Mean monthly nearshore wave periods for five coastal segments 4-38 



4-19 Distribution of number of simultaneous wave trains from wave 



gages in three coastal segments 4-39 



4-20 Distribution of significant wave heights from coastal wave 



gages for 1-year records 4-41 



4-21 Nearshore current system near La Jolla Canyon, California 4-51 



4-22 Typical rip currents, Ludlam Island, New Jersey 4-52 



4-23 Distribution of longshore current velocities 4-53 



4-24 Measured versus predicted longshore current speed 4-56 



4-25 Coasts in vicinity of New York Bight 4-57 



4-26 Three scales of profiles, Westhampton, Long Island 4-61 



4-27 Unit volume change versus time between surveys for profiles on 



south shore of Long Island 4-64 



4-28 Distribution of grain sizes along transects of the Virginia- 

 North Carolina coast 4-67 



4-29 Maximum bottom velocity from small-amplitude theory 4-68 



4-30 Comparison of vertical sequences from low-energy Georgia 



coast and high-energy California coast 4-72 



4-31 Location and characteristics of beaches included in Table 4-6 4-7 9 



4-32 Effects of four storms on the beach and nearshore at a profile 

 line south of CERC's Field Research Facility in Duck, North 

 Carolina 4-81 



4-33 Slow accretion of ridge-and-runnel at Crane Beach, Massachusetts. . .4-82 



4-34 Rapid accretion of ridge-and-runnel at Lake Michigan 4-84 



4-35 Data, trends, median grain size versus foreshore slope 4-87 



4-36 Data, median grain size versus foreshore slope 4-88 



