Table 4-11. Assumptions for P formulas in Table 4-10 . 



1 . Formula 1 - Equation (4-44) 



a. Energy density at breaking is given by linear theory 



E = (p g H^)/8 



b. Group velocity equals vave speed at breaking, and breaking speed is 

 given by solitary wave theory according to the approximation (Galvin, 

 1967, eq. 11) 



C^ . C . (2gHj)l/2 



c. a can be replaced by a, . 



2. Formula 2 - Equation (4-45) 



a. Same as lb above. 



b. Hi is related to H by refraction and shoaling coefficients, where 

 the coefficients are evaluated at the breaker position 



b R s o 



c. Refraction coefficient Kd is given by small-amplitude theory; 



s 



d. [H J = 1.14 [cos a J H 



shoaling coefficient K is assumed constant, so that 



if (cos a J^^*^ = 1.0 



and (k 1^^^ = 1.14 



3. Formula 3 - Equation (4-46) 



a. Refraction coefficient at breaking is given by small-amplitude 

 theory. 



4. Formula 4 - Equation (4-47) 



a. Same as la above. 



b. Same as lb above. 



c. Same as 3a above. 



d. Cos a, = 1.0 . 



b 



Small-amplitude theory is assumed valid in deep water. Nearshore contours 

 are assumed to be straight and parallel to the shoreline. 



4-95 



