= 0.040 



= 0.500 



0.0155 



Shallow water — *--«■ 



Transitional water — 



0.0792 



-Deep water 



gT^ 0.001 

 0.0008 



0.00004 



0.00003 



0.0004 0.001 0.002 



0.004 0.006 0.01 

 d 

 gT2 



0.02 0.04 0.06 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 



(ofler Le Mehoute, i969) 



Figure 7-75. Breaking wave height and regions of validity of various wave 

 theories. 



7-117 



