Pt Ptnos, Colitornio 



Woves moving over o submonne ridge concentrate 'o give large 

 wove heights on a point 





fl^ 



WIDE 

 SURF ZONE 



NARROW 

 SURF ZONE 





NARROW 

 SURF ZONE 



Holfmoon Boy, Colifornia 



Note the mcreosmg width of the surf zone with increasing degree 

 of exposure to the south 



Punsima Pi , Californio 



Refroction of woves oround a headland produces low woves ond 

 narrow surf zone where bending is greatest 



Wieqel,l953) 



Figure A-5. Refraction of waves. 



A-45 



