Symbol 



Definition 



Dimension 



Example Units 



Metric 



English 



P 

 (Beta) 



r 



(Gamma) 



(Delta) 



(Epsilon) 



(Zeta) 



n 



(Eta) 



r| (envelope) 



"i 



n(t) 



Factor for increasing fetch 

 length (eq. 3-47) 



Local fluid particle acceleration 

 in x-direction (eq. 2-15) 



Local fluid particle acceleration 

 in z-direction (eq. 2-16) 



Skewness of sediment sample using 

 phi size measures (eq. 4-5) 



Lower limit of observed d./H. 



• Empirically determined over- 

 topping coefficient 



• Depth-to-height ratio of 

 breaking waves in shallow 

 water (eq. 4-21) 



• Constant for wave spectrum 

 predictions 



Horizontal mixing coefficient in 

 surf zone (eq. 4-21) perpendic- 

 ular to the shoreline 



Specific gravity of a fluid 

 (eq. 4-6) 



• Ratio between left and right 

 longshore transport rates 

 (eq. 4-31) 



Specific gravity of a solid 

 (eq. 4-6) 



Change; algebraic difference 



Wall friction angle (eq. 7-143) 



Characteristic length describing 

 pile roughness elements (Ch. 7) 



• Phase lag for bay high water 

 with respect to sea high water 



Vertical particle displacement 

 caused by wave passage (eq. 2-18) 



• Astronomical tide potential in 

 head of water (eq. 3-77) 



Displacement of water surface 

 relative to SWL by passage of 

 wave (eq. 2-10) 



Envelope waveform of two or more 

 superimposed wave trains 

 (eq. 2-34) 



Water surface displacement by 

 incident wave (Ch. 2) 



Wave crest elevation above SWL 

 (Ch. 7) 



Water surface displacement by 

 reflected wave (Ch. 2) 



Departure of water surface from 

 its average position as a func- 

 tion of time (eq. 3-11) 



L/T 



L/T' 



m/s 



m/s 



m 



min, hr 



m 

 m 



ft/s 



ft/s 



deg 



ft 



ft 



ft 



ft 



ft 



ft 



(Continued) 



B19 



