GUIDE FOR USE OF TABLES C-1 AND C-2 



d 



L 



H 



O 



= ratio of the depth of water at any specific location to the wavelength 

 in deep water 



= ratio of the depth of water at any specific location to the wavelength 

 at that same location 



= ratio of the wave height in shallow water to what its wave height would 

 have been in deep water if unaffected by refraction 



4 



y X — X -pT — = K (shoaling coefficient) 



K = a pressure response factor used in connection with underwater pressure 

 instruments, where 





H P 



cost 



cos 



h ^2-d/J 



where P is the pressure fluctuation at a depth z measured negatively 

 below still water, P is the surface pressure fluctuation, d is the 

 depth of water from still-water level to the ocean bottom, L is the 

 wavelength in any particular depth of water, and H is the corresponding 

 variation of head at a depth z . The values of K shown in the tables 

 are for the instrument placed on the bottom using the equation when 

 z = - d 



cosh 



UTTd/ 1 



values tabulated in column 8 



n = the fraction of wave energy that travels forward with the waveform: 

 i.e., with the wave velocity C rather than the group velocity C^ 



Aird/, 



2 ^^ 



sinh 



T4^^ 



n is also the ratio of group velocity Zq to wave velocity C 



— — = ratio of group velocity to deepwater wave velocity where 



C-3 



