SUBJECT INDEX 



Forecasting (see also Deep water wave prediction; 

 Hurricane wave prediction; Shallow water wave 

 prediction; Wave hindcasting; Wave prediction), 

 3-1, 3-34, 3-55 

 curves, 3-45, 3-46, 3-55 thru 3-66 

 Foredune, 1-12, 4-5, 4-62, 4-108 thru 4-110, 4-112, 

 5-24, 5-26, 5-27, 6-37 thru 6-39, 6-45, 6-51 

 destruction, 6-38 

 Forerunner (water level), 3-111 

 Foreshore, 1-2, 1-3, 1-8, 1-10, 1-21, 4-62, 4-72, 

 4-76, 4-83, 4-86, 5-31, 5-35, 5-37, 5-40, 6-75, 

 6-76 

 slopes, 4-86 thru 4-88, 4-148, 5-8, 5-21, 6-16, 6-27 

 Fort 

 Hanilton, New York, 3-124, 3-125 

 Macon State Park, North Carolina, 6-25 

 Myers, Florida, 4-35 

 Pierce, Florida, 6-15, 6-25 

 Point, Texas, 3-112 

 Pulaski, Georgia, 3-117 

 Sheridan, Illinois, 7-255 

 Foundation (see also Pile foundation; Rubble founda- 

 tion; Rubble-mound foundation), 1-23, 6-6, 6-84, 

 6-88, 6-92, 6-93, 7-177, 7-179, 7-241, 7-242. 

 7-244, 7-256 

 conditions, 6-13, 6-14, 6-93, 7-240, 8-85 

 design, 5-73, 7-149 



materials, 6-14, 6-84, 6-93, 7-241, 7-242 

 soil, 7-241, 7-242, 7-245, 8-75 

 stability, 7-229, 7-249 

 Freeport, Texas, 3-112 

 Frequency, wave (see Wave frequency) 

 Friction (see also Angle of wall friction; Bottom 

 friction; Internal friction angle), 3-20, 3-34, 3-74, 



3-75, 3-98, 4-30, 8-33 

 coefficient, 4-55, 4-162, 7-260, 8-84 

 factor, 3-68, 3-72, 4-100. 4-164 

 loss, 3-55, 3-69 

 velocity, 3-25, 3-26 

 Friday Harbor, Washington, 3-118 

 Fully arisen sea, 3-24, 3-42. 3-49, 3-50, 3-53. 3-77 



- G 



Gabions, 1-20, 7-242, 7-245 



Galveston, Texas, 3-90, 3-111, 3-112, 3-114, 3-117, 

 4-35, 4-37, 4-41, 6-2, 6-15 



Harbor, 4-144 

 Ray Head, Martha's Vineyard, Massachusetts, 4-23 

 Geostrophic wind, 3-25, 3-34, 3-35, 3-38. 3-40 

 Geotextile, 6-97, 7-241, 7-242, 7-247 



filter, 6-1, 6-6, 6-13, 6-14, 7-241, 7-242, 7-247, 

 7-248 

 Gerstner, 2-2 



Glossary of terms, A-1 thru A-40 

 Goleta Beach, California, 4-10 

 Government Cut, Florida, 6-32, 6-35 

 Gradient wind, 3-34 

 Grain size (see also Median grain size), 1-16, 



4-12 thru 4-14, 4-18, 4-26, 4-66, 4-67, 4-71, 4-83, 



4-85 thru 4-88, 4-145, 4-148, 4-180, 5-9 thru 5-12, 



5-15, 5-19, 5-64, 5-67, 6-16, 6-26, 6-36. 6-39, A-41 

 Grand 



Isle, Louisiana, 3-117 



Marais, Michigan, 6-87 

 Graphic measures, 4-15 

 Grasses, beach (see Beach grasses) 

 Gravel, 4-12, 4-13, 4-21, 4-124, 6-6, 7-241, 7-242, 



7-258, 7-260 

 Gravity wave, 2-4, 2-5. 2-9, 2-25. 2-31, 2-37. 3-88, 



3-92, 3-107 



Great Lakes, 1-13, 1-14, 3-19, 3-21, 3-23, 3-30, 



3-32, 3-96, 3-99, 3-127. 4-78, 4-91, 5-21, 5-39, 



5-56, 5-59, 6-83, 6-92, 6-93, 7-253, 8-26 

 Greyhound Rock, California, 4-136, 4-138 

 Groin (see also Adjustable groin; Asphalt groin; Canti- 

 lever sheet-pile groin; Cellular-steel sheet-pile 

 groin; Concrete groin; Concrete sheet-pile groin; 

 Fixed groin; High groin; Impermeable groin; Low 

 groin; Permeable groin; Rubble-mound groin; Sheet- 

 pile groin; Steel groin; Steel sheet-pile groin; 

 Terminal groin; Timber groin; Timber sheet-pile groin; 

 Timber-steel sheet-pile groin; Transitional groin; 

 Weir groin), 1-17, 1-19, 1-23, 1-24, 2-109, 3-110, 

 4-6, 4-58, 4-60. 4-76, 4-136, 4-139, 5-7, 5-22, 5-24, 

 5-32, 5-35 thru 5-56, 5-62, 6-1, 6-27. 5-56, 6-65, 

 6-76, 6-83, 6-84, 7-1 thru 7-3, 7-100, 7-198, 7-204, 

 7-239, 7-247 



alinement (see also Beach alinement), 5-53 



artificial filling. 5-7. 5-52. 5-54 



construction, 4-6, 5-7, 5-39, 5-41, 5-52, 5-54 

 thru 5-56, 6-83 



definition, 1-23, 5-35 



design, 4-143, 5-35, 5-37, 5-40, 5-45, 6-84 



dimension, 5-44 



economic justification, 5-40 



field (see Groin system) 



functional design, 5-39, 5-56 



legal aspects, 5-56 



operation, 5-35 



system, 1-23, 5-7, 5-35, 5-39 thru 5-41. 5-43 thru 

 5-47. 5-52, 5-54 thru 5-56, 6-54, 7-255 



types, 6-76, 6-84 

 Groundwater, 1-16, 7-241, 7-245, 7-249 

 Group velocity, 2-23 thru 2-25, 2-29, 2-31. 2-32, 



3-43, 4-94, 4-95, C-3 



- - H - 



Haleiwa Beach, Hawaii, 5-62 



Hal fmoon Bay, 4-86 



Hamlin Beach, New York, 2-111 



Hammonasset Beach, Madison, Connecticut, 6-25 



Hampton 



Beach, New Hampshire, 6-25 



Harbor, New Hampshire, 4-169 



Roads, Virginia, 3-90, 3-124, 3-125 

 Harbor 



protection, 1-22, 1-23, 5-1, 6-88, 6-93, 7-242 



resonance, 2-75, 2-112 

 Harrison County, Mississippi, 5-20, 6-4, 6-25 

 Harvey Cedars, Long Beach Island, New Jersey, 6-83 

 Haulover Beach Park, Florida, 6-32, 6-35 

 Heavy minerals, 4-17, 4-18, 4-21, 4-22, 4-145 

 Height, wave (see Wave height) 

 Hexapod, 7-206, 7-209, 7-215, 7-216, 7-224. 7-234 

 High groin, 1-23, 1-24, 5-37, 5-39, 5-40, 6-76 

 Hillsboro Inlet, Florida, 4-91. 5-30. 6-61, 6-67, 6-74 

 Hilo, Hawaii, 3-93 



Hindcasting (see Wave hindcasting; Wave prediction) 

 Holden Beach, North Carolina, 4-37 

 Holland, Michigan, 4-84 

 Hollow 



square, 7-216 



tetrahedron, 7-216 

 Honolulu, Hawaii, 1-3, 3-94, 7-226 

 Hopper dredges, 1-26, 4-180, 5-32, 5-33, 6-14, 6-15. 



6-32, 6-36, 6-71, 6-73, 6-75, 6-76 

 Horizontal forces, 7-127, 7-129, 7-150, 7-151, 7-153 



thru 7-155, 7-157, 7-163, 7-177, 7-182, 7-255, 8-78, 



8-81, 8-84 

 Houston, Texas, 3-114 



D-6 



