SUBJECT INDEX 



Longshore (Cent) 

 transport (Cont) 

 rate (Cont) 



gross, 1-14, 4-89, 4-92, 4-104, 4-105, 4-107, 



4-114, 4-120, 4-126. 4-147, 5-1, 5-58 

 net, 1-14, 4-12, 4-89, 4-92, 4-120, 4-130, 4-167, 



5-1, 5-8, 5-58, 5-60. 6-57, 8-90 

 potential, 4-104, 8-85. 8-87. 8-88 thru 8-90 

 tracers (see Tracers) 

 wave energy (see Longshore energy) 

 Los Angeles. California. 3-118, 6-95 

 Low groin (see also Weir groin). 1-24, 1-25. 5-39, 



5-40. 6-76 

 Ludlam 

 Beach, New Jersey. 4-77, 4-79 

 Island, New Jersey. 4-11. 4-37. 4-52 



H - - 



Maalea Harbor, 7-235 



Malaga Cove (Redondo Beach). California (see also 



Redondo Beach (Malaga Cove), California). 5-33 

 Manahawkin Bay, New Jersey, 4-7 

 Manasquan, New Jersey. 4-91. 7-226 

 Mandalay. California. 4-37 

 Marine 



environment, 7-14. 7-17 



Street. California, 4-10 



structures, 2-57, 7-253, 7-255 

 Martha's Vineyard, Massachusetts, 4-24 

 Masonboro 



Beach. North Carolina. 6-22. 6-68. 6-74 



Inlet, North Carolina, 6-16, 6-22. 6-61, 6-68, 6-74, 

 6-83 

 Mass 



coefficient, 7-101. 7-103 



density (see also Specific gravity; Unit weight), 

 7-205. 7-233, 7-236. 7-243 

 sand. 4-90 

 water, 2-21. 3-121. 4-90. 7-205 



transport. 2-4, 2-15, 2-18, 2-31, 2-36, 4-4. 4-48, 

 4-49, 4-59, 4-147 

 Massachusetts Bay, Massachusetts, 6-15 

 Matagorda, Texas, 3-112, 3-113 



Materials, construction (see Construction naterials) 

 Mathematical models. 3-1. 3-19, 3-42, 3-77, 3-81, 3-83, 



3-105. 3-115. 3-122, 3-126. 5-44. 5-45 

 Maximum 



probable wave (see Probable maximum wave) 



surge, 3-123 



water level. 3-104, 3-123. 4-166 

 Mayport. Florida, 3-92, 3-117 

 Mean 



diameter. 4-15, 5-11, 8-91 



water level. 2-6, 3-2. 3-95, 3-96. 3-99. 3-100, 

 3-105, 3-106, 3-108. 3-126. 7-162 



wave height. 4-36. 4-37 

 Median 



diameter, 4-14. 4-15. 4-24. 4-25, 4-69. 4-181. 6-30 



grain size. 4-12. 4-17. 4-86 thru 4-88 

 Merian's equation, 2-115, 3-98 

 Merrimack River 



Estuary, Massachusetts, 4-151, 4-160 



Inlet. Massachusetts. 4-150. 4-151, 4-160 

 Miami, Florida, 4-35 



Beach, 1-3, 1-19, 3-117, 6-15, 6-32, 6-36 

 Miche-Rundgren Theory, 7-161, 7-165, 7-166, 7-168, 



7-169 

 Michel 1 (wave steepness), 2-37, 2-129 

 Middleground shoal, 1-14, 4-120, 4-152, 5-15, 5-19, 



5-26, 5-28, 6-56, 6-57 



Miles-Phillips-Hasselmann Theory, 3-19, 3-21, 3-43 



Millibar. 3-34. 3-35, 3-37 



Milwaukee County, Wisconsin, 4-91 



Minerals (see also Heavy minerals), 1-17, 4-21, 



4-22, 4-144, 6-30 

 Minikin, 7-181, 7-182, 7-185, 7-187 thru 7-189 

 Mining, 4-114, 4-124. 4-127 thru 4-129 

 Misquamicut, Rhode Island. 4-37, 4-77, 4-79 



Beach, 4-11 

 Mississippi River, 4-24, 4-115 

 Mobile, Alabama, 1-6 

 Modified cube, 7-206. 7-209, 7-215, 7-216, 7-223, 



7-234 

 Mokuoloe Island, Hawaii, 3-94 

 Moments (see also Skewness; Standard deviation). 7-105, 



7-111, 7-112, 7-118, 7-127, 7-129, 7-131, 7-149 thru 



7-151, 7-155, 7-157 thru 7-159, 7-163. 7-166. 7-169, 



7-170, 7-172 thru 7-181, 7-187, 7-193 thru 7-198. 



7-202. 8-78, 8-80, 8-83 

 Monochromatic wave. 2-62, 2-74. 2-108. 2-112. 3-1, 3-15. 



3-18, 3-101, 3-106, 7-16, 7-43, 7-58, 7-62, 7-65, 7-67, 



7-68, 7-74, 7-76. 7-78 thru 7-81. 7-83 thru 7-90. 7-94, 



7-101. 7-102. 7-208. 7-209 

 Honomoy-Nauset Inlet, Massachusetts, 4-169 

 Montauk, New York, 3-116, 3-124, 3-125 



Point, 3-92 

 Monterey, California, 3-42 



Morehead City, North Carolina, 3-117, 3-124. 3-125 

 Moriches Inlet. 4-45 

 Mugu Canyon. California, 4-123 

 Murrells Inlet. South Carolina, 1-24, 1-25, 4-37, 



6-61 

 Mustang Island, Texas, 4-110. 4-112 

 Myrtl e 



Beach. Connecticut, 4-11 



Sound, North Carolina, 6-16 



N - - 



Nags Head. North Carolina, 3-13. 4-37. 4-41. 6-48. 6-83 



Nantucket Island, Massachusetts, 4-24, 6-8 



Naples, Florida, 4-37. 4-41 



National Shoreline Study. 1-2. 4-24. 4-135 



Natural 



Bridges. California, 4-37 



tracers, 4-21, 4-144 

 Nauset 



Beach, Massachusetts, 4-108, 6-52 



Spit, Cape Cod, Massachusetts, 1-11, 4-169 

 Navigation channel. 1-1. 1-23, 1-24. 1-26. 3-110, 4-58. 



4-180. 5-28 thru 5-30. 5-57, 6-56, 6-73 thru 6-75 

 Nawiliwili, Kawai, Hawaii, 7-226 

 Neah Bay. Washington. 3-118 

 Nearshore 



bathymetry, 2-60 



currents (see also Littoral currents; Littoral trans- 

 port). 1-1. 1-2. 4-46, 4-49. 4-50, 4-51, 4-134 



profile, 4-59 thru 4-64, 4-66, 4-75, 4-147, 6-32 



slopes, 1-7, 1-9, 2-59, 2-136, 4-76. 4-143, 5-6, 5-9, 

 5-20, 6-16, 6-27, 7-4 thru 7-6, 7-9 thru 7-11, 

 7-45 thru 7-53, 7-182, 7-183. 7-186. 7-187. 7-201 



wave climate. 4-31. 4-42, 4-89 



zone, 1-2, 1-4, 1-6. 1-7. 1-13. 4-49. 4-50, 4-62. 4-65, 

 4-115, 4-119. 4-147 

 New 



London. Connecticut. 3-116, 3-124. 3-125 



River Inlet. North Carolina. 6-75 



York. New York, 3-90, 4-35 

 Bight. 4-57, 6-15 

 Harbor. 3-124. 4-136. 4-140, 4-180 



D-9 



