SUBJECT INDEX 



Plum Island, 4-151, 4-160 

 Pocket beach, 4-1, 4-3, 4-138 

 Pohoiki Bay, Hawaii, Hawaii, 7-226, 7-23B 

 Point 

 Arguello, California, 3-36, 4-124 

 Barrow, Alaska, 4-45 

 Conception, California, 4-145 

 Loma, California, 3-92 

 Mugu, California, 4-10, 4-37, 4-71, 4-74, 



4-136, 4-137 

 Reyes, California, 4-10 

 sinks, 4-113, 4-114 

 sources, 4-113, 4-114, 4-117, 4-119 

 Sur, California, 4-10 

 Pompano Beach, Florida, 6-15, 6-25 

 Ponce de Leon Inlet, Florida, 6-61, 6-71 

 Ponding, 7-89, 7-90 

 Poorly- 

 graded sediment, 4-14 

 sorted sediment, 4-14 

 Porosity, 4-66, 7-3, 7-18, 7-208, 7-215, 7-229, 7-234, 



7-236 thru 7-238 

 Port 

 Aransas, Texas, 3-112, 3-113 

 Arthur, Texas, 3-112 thru 3-114 

 Hueneme, California, 1-23, 4-91, 5-28, 6-59, 6-61, 



6-72 

 Isabel, Texas, 3-92, 3-112, 3-113, 3-117, 4-35 

 Lavaca, Texas, 3-114 

 O'Conner, Texas, 3-112, 3-113 

 Orford, Oregon, 4-37 

 Sanilac, Michigan, 6-91, 6-92 

 Townsend, Washington, 3-92 

 Portland, llaine, 3-116, 3-124, 3-125 

 Portsmouth 



Island, North Carolina, 4-122 

 New Hampshire, 3-116, 3-124, 3-125 

 Virginia, 3-116, 3-124, 3-125 

 Potential energy, 2-25, 2-26, 2-29, 2-58, 3-15, 3-99, 



3-107 

 Potham Beach, Maine, 1-21 

 Power, wave (see Wave power) 

 Precast concrete armor units, 1-21 

 Prediction, wave (see Wave prediction) 

 Presque Isle, Pennsylvania, 5-62, 5-63, 6-80 

 Pressure (see also Atmospheric pressure; Central 



pressure index; Dynamic pressure; Earth pressure; 

 Hydrostatic pressure; Soil bearing pressure; Sub- 

 surface pressure), 2-6, 2-43, 2-58, 3-34, 3-52, 

 3-81, 3-82, 3-84, 3-110, 4-28, 6-6, 7-161 thru 

 7-163, 7-173, 7-180, 7-181, 7-187, 7-193, 7-196, 

 7-198, 7-254, 7-256, C-3 

 distribution, 2-46, 7-161 thru 7-163, 7-173, 7-174, 



7-178, 7-181, 7-182, 7-192, 7-256 

 gradient, 2-36, 3-24, 3-30, 3-33, 3-34, 4-50 

 profile, 3-82 

 pulse, 3-20 



response factor, 2-22, 7-104, C-3 

 Pria, Terceria, Azores, 7-236 

 Probable maximum 

 hurricane, 3-126 

 wave, 3-87 

 Profile (see also Beach profile; Bottom profile; 

 Coastal profile; Design profile; Dune profile; 

 Island profile; Nearshore profile; Onshore- 

 offshore profile; Pressure profile; Shelf profile; 

 Temperature profile; Wave profile; Wind profile), 

 2-39, 2-114, 3-20, 3-24, 3-97, 3-120, 4-6, 4-60, 

 4-61, 4-64, 4-65, 4-73 thru 4-78. 4-80, 4-83, 4-85, 

 4-117, 4-118, 4-143, 4-161, 5-5. 5-6, 5-9, 5-21, 

 5-22, 5-31, 5-35, 5-43, 5-45, 5-48, 5-49, 5-67, 

 6-26, 6-27, 6-80 



Profile (Cont) 

 accuracy, 4-62 



closure error, 4-62. 4-63 

 sounding error. 4-62 

 spacing error. 4-62. 4-63 

 temporal fluctuations, 4-62 

 zonation, 4-73, 4-76 

 Progressive wave, 2-3, 2-6 thru 2-8, 2-10, 2-37 



theory, 2-6 

 Prospect Beach, West Haven, Connecticut, 6-25 

 Protective beach (see also Artificial beach nourish- 

 ment; Beach nourishment; Beach protection; Berm; 

 Dune; Feeder beach; Groin), 5-2, 5-6, 5-7, 5-33, 

 5-35, 5-63, 6-1, 6-14 thru 6-24, 6-29, 6-30, 6-33 

 erosion (see Beach erosion) 

 Providence, Rhode Island, 3-116 

 Provincetown. Massachusetts, 3-92 

 Puget Sound, Washington. 3-92 



Quadrlpod. 6-85. 6-88. 7-206. 7-209. 7-211. 7-215 thru 



7-217. 7-219. 7-225, 7-226, 7-231, 7-234 

 Quarrystone, 1-21, 1-23, 1-24, 5-58, 5-61, 6-5, 6-6, 

 6-11, 6-97, 7-16, 7-26, 7-32, 7-202, 7-205. 7-206. 

 7-211. 7-212. 7-214. 7-215. 7-225. 7-230. 7-231, 

 7-233, 7-234, 7-236 thru 7-242, 7-245, 7-246, 8-47, 

 8-61 

 armor units, 1-24, 6-88, 6-97, 7-210, 7-212, 7-236, 



7-241, 7-245, 7-247, 7-249 

 revetment, 1-21, 6-6, 6-11 

 slopes, 7-16, 7-26 

 weight and size, 7-230 

 Quartz, 4-18, 4-21, 4-22, 4-69, 4-73, 4-74, 4-124, 6-36 

 Quay. 8-75. 8-85 

 Quincy Shore Beach, Quincy, Massachusetts, 6-25 



R - - 



Racine County, Wisconsin, 4-91 



Radioactive tracers 4-144, 4-145 



Radioisotopic sand tracing (RIST). 4-145 



Rainfall. 3-111. 3-115 



Random wave. 3-106 thru 3-109. 7-62. 7-67. 7-74, 7-92, 



7-95 thru 7-98 

 Rankine, 7-257, 7-259 

 Rayleigh distribution, 3-2, 3-5 thru 3-8. 3-10 thru 



3-12. 3-81, 4-40, 4-93. 7-2. 7-39. 7-58. 7-67 

 Redfish Pass. Florida, 4-167, 4-168, 4-173 

 Redondo Beach (Malaga Cove), California (see also 



Malaga Cove (Redondo Beach), California), 4-91, 5-20, 



6-14, 6-16, 6-25, 6-28 thru 6-32 

 Reefs, organic (see Organic reefs) 

 Reflection coefficient (see also Wave reflection), 

 2-112, 2-116 thru 2-119, 2-121 thru 2-125, 7-73, 

 7-77, 7-82, 7-84, 7-85, 7-161 thru 7-163, 7-173, 

 7-179, 7-245, 7-246 

 Refraction 



analysis (see Wave refraction analysis) 



coefficient (see also Wave refraction), 2-64, 2-67, 

 2-71, 2-72, 2-110, 2-135, 2-136, 3-104, 4-94, 4-95, 

 7-14. 7-15. 7-33. 8-33. 8-35 thru 8-37, 8-76 



diagrams (see Wave refraction analysis — diagrams) 



diffraction coefficient, 2-109, 2-110 



template, 2-65, 2-66, 2-69 

 Rehoboth Beach, Delaware, 1-20 



D-U 



