SUBJECT INDEX 



Wave (Cont) 



forecasting (see Wave hi'ndcasting; Wave prediction) 

 frequency (see also Wave angular frequency), 2-4, 



2-108, 3-19, 3-42, 4-102, 7-2, 7-132, 7-133 

 fully arisen sea (see Fully arisen sea) 

 generation, 2-1, 3-1, 3-19 thru 3-21, 3-24, 3-26, 



3-55, 3-77, 4-29 

 group velocity (see Group velocity) 

 growth, 3-14, 3-20, 3-21. 3-24, 3-26, 3-27, 3-30. 

 3-41, 3-43, 3-44, 3-47, 3-51, 3-53. 3-55, 3-66. 

 3-70 

 height (see also Breaking wave height; Deep water 

 significant wave height; Design breaking wave 

 height; Design wave height; Mean wave height; 

 Nonbreaking wave height; Significant wave height), 

 1-5, 2-3, 2-20, 2-27, 2-30. 2-31. 2-58, 2-67. 2-91. 

 2-105, 2-117, 2-119. 2-122. 3-39. 3-44, 3-45, 3-47, 

 3-55, 3-66, 3-74 thru 3-77, 3-80. 4-44. 5-65, 7-2. 

 7-33. 7-34. 7-39. 7-41. C-34. C-35 

 average, 3-2. 3-6 

 distribution. 2-75, 3-7 thru 3-11, 3-81. 4-43, 



4-142, 4-143, 7-2, 7-39 

 Rayleigh distribution (see Rayleigh distribution) 

 root-tnean-square, 3-5, 4-93 

 statistics, 3-81. 4-40. 4-43. 4-105 

 variability, 3-2, 3-81 

 hindcasting (see also Wave prediction). 2-66. 3-1. 

 3-18. 3-21. 3-24, 4-42. 4-77, 4-78, 7-17. 8-26. 

 8-28 thru 8-30, 8-85, 8-90 

 length (see also Deep water wave length), 1-5. 1-6, 

 2-2. 2-7, 2-9. 2-18. 2-24. 2-25, 2-29, 2-32, 2-34. 

 2-37. 2-44 thru 2-46. 2-60. 2-62. 2-64. 2-66, 2-77 

 thru 2-99, 2-101 thru 2-105, 2-107, 2-108, 2-113. 

 2-115. 2-116. 2-119. 2-121. 2-124, 2-126, 3-2, 3-93. 

 3-98. 4-47. 4-85. 5-64. 5-65. 5-71. 5-72, 7-4, 7-35. 

 7-93. 7-94. 7-99. 7-101, 7-103, 7-104. 7-106. 7-108. 

 7-109. 7-144, 7-150 thru 7-152, 7-155, 7-181 thru 

 7-183, 8-33. C-3. C-31, C-32. C-34 

 mass transport (see Mass transport) 

 mechanics. 2-1 

 motion, 1-1. 1-6. 1-9. 2-1, 2-59. 2-112, 2-115, 4-4, 



4-46, 4-48, 7-138 

 nonlinear deformation (see Nonlinear deformation) 

 number, 2-7, 2-30, 2-112 

 overtopping (see Overtopping) 



period (see also Design wave period; Significant wave 

 period), 1-5. 1-6, 2-4, 2-7. 2-9. 2-24, 2-25. 2-31. 

 2-36, 2-42 thru 2-45, 2-54. 2-60. 2-66. 2-112. 2-122. 

 3-2, 3-13, 3-14, 3-39. 3-46. 3-51, 3-55 thru 3-65. 

 3-70. 3-71. 3-74. 3-77. 3-80, 3-81, 3-85 thru 3-87, 

 3-101. 3-105. 4-29 thru 4-31. 4-38. 4-44. 4-51. 4-68. 

 4-69, 4-74, 4-85, 4-94. 4-104, 5-69, 7-2, 7-9, 7-14, 

 7-15, 7-43, 7-54, 7-61, 7-62. 7-89. 7-92. 7-95 thru 

 7-99, 7-101, 7-105, 7-110, 7-144, 7-170, 7-174. 7-178. 

 7-182. 7-183, 7-187. 7-203, 7-204. 8-23. 8-33. 8-37, 

 8-74. 8-76. C-30 thru C-33 

 potential energy (see Potential energy) 

 power (see also Wave energy), 2-25. 2-26. 2-44, 2-63, 



3-5 

 prediction (see also Deep water wave prediction; 

 Hurricane wave prediction; Shallow water wave 

 prediction; Wave hindcasting). 1-1. 3-1. 3-19. 

 3-21. 3-24. 3-27. 3-32, 3-39. 3-41 thru 3-44. 

 3-47, 3-49, 3-50. 3-53. 3-67, 3-88 

 fetch (see Fetch) 

 method (see Sverdrup-Munk-Bretschneider wave 



prediction method) 

 models (see also Pierson-Neuman-James wave pre- 

 diction model). 3-14. 3-26. 3-42 

 wind duration (see Wind duration) 

 pressure (see also Pressure pulse; Subsurface 



pressure). 7-192, 7-193. 7-195, 7-241 

 profile, 2-2. 2-8, 2-10, 2-32. 2-37. 2-44 thru 2-46, 



2-55. 3-15, 4-29, 7-5 

 propagation (see Wave transmission) 



Wave (Cont) 

 reflection (see also Reflection coefficient). 1-1, 

 2-109. 2-111 thru 2-114. 2-116 thru 2-118. 2-122, 

 2-124, 3-98, 7-8, 7-62. 7-89 

 refraction (see also Refraction coefficent; Refrac- 

 tion template), 2-60 thru 2-62, 2-64, 2-67, 2-71 

 thru 2-74, 2-126, 4-29, 4-30, 5-24, 5-32. 8-33. 

 8-35, 8-36, A-45 

 analysis, 2-62, 2-63, 2-68. 2-71. 2-135. 3-24. 5-60, 

 7-1, 7-11. 7-13, 7-16. 7-17. 8-26. 8-32. 8-36 

 computer methods. 2-71 

 diagrams. 2-64, 2-66, 2-70 thru 2-72, 2-74, 2-109, 



7-14. A-46 

 fan diagrams. 2-70, 2-72, 7-14 

 orthogonal method, 2-66 

 R/J method, 2-70 

 wave-front method, 2-71 

 runup. 3-99, 3-101, 3-104 thru 3-106, 4-66, 4-76, 

 4-108. 4-110, 5-3, 5-4, 5-20, 5-58, 7-16, 7-18, 

 7-25, 7-28 thru 7-35. 7-37 thru 7-44. 7-55, 7-58, 

 7-59, 7-62, 7-67, 7-72, 7-73. 7-75. 7-192. 7-194, 

 7-196. 7-197. 7-210. 7-229, 7-239, 7-240, 8-48 

 composite slopes. 7-35. 7-36, 7-40 

 impermeable slopes. 7-16. 7-18 thru 7-23. 7-26. 



7-27, 7-34 

 rubble-mound structure, 7-18 



scale effects, 7-16, 7-18. 7-24, 7-34, 7-37, 7-55 



setdown, 3-99, 3-101, 3-107. 3-109, 3-111 



setup, 3-88, 3-89, 3-99 thru 3-102. 3-104 thru 3-109. 



3-111. 3-115. 4-49. 4-50. 5-20. 5-37. 7-35, 8-12, 



8-46 



spectra (see also Wave energy). 2-108. 3-11 thru 3-14. 



3-77. 3-78. 7-43. 7-89, 7-93. 7-94, 7-149, 7-209 

 steepness, 1-9, 1-10, 1-13 thru 1-15, 2-37, 2-60, 

 2-112, 2-116, 2-117, 2-119. 2-129 thru 2-131. 3-12. 

 3-15. 3-86. 3-107, 4-43, 4-44, 4-49, 4-85, 7-5. 7-7, 

 7-9. 7-16, 7-44, 7-64. 7-73. 7-101, 7-106, 7-162 

 swell (see Swell) 

 theories (see also Airy Wave Theory; Cnoidal Wave 



Theory; Finite Amplitude Wave Theory; Linear Wave 

 Theory; Progressive Wave Theory; Small Amplitude 

 Wave Theory; Solitary Wave Theory; Stokes Wave 

 Theory; Stream Function Wave Theory; Trochoidal 

 Wave Theory), 1-1, 2-1 thru 2-4, 2-31. 2-33, 

 7-102. 7-105. 7-110, 7-117. 7-136, 7-141. 7-143, 

 7-144 

 regions of validity. 2-31. 2-33 

 train. 2-23 thru 2-25. 3-4. 3-11. 3-12. 3-14. 3-18. 

 3-21. 3-43. 3-77. 4-30, 4-31, 4-36, 4-39, 4-93, 7-3, 

 7-108, 7-209 

 translation (see Translatory wave) 

 transmission (see also Transmission coefficient), 

 2-1. 2-3. 2-8. 2-14. 2-15, 2-26, 2-36, 2-38. 2-109. 

 2-119. 3-14. 3-20, 3-21, 3-122, 7-1, 7-16, 7-61 thru 

 7-65. 7-67 thru 7-69. 7-73, 7-74, 7-76 thru 7-87, 

 7-89, 7-150, 7-158, 7-192, 7-225 

 variability (see Wave height variability) 

 velocity (see Wave celerity) 

 Weir. 1-24. 5-34. 6-59. 6-61. 6-74. 6-75 

 groin. 5-40 



jetty. 1-24. 1-25. 4-89, 5-30. 5-31. 5-34, 5-40, 

 6-59, 6-74. 6-75 

 Well- 



graded sediment. 4-14 

 sorted sediment. 4-14 

 Wentworth size classification, 4-12, 4-13 

 West 



Quoddy Head, Maine, 3-92 

 Palm Beach. Florida, 3-79 

 Westhampton, New York. 4-61, 4-77, 4-79 



Beach. 2-61. 4-1, 4-2, 4-11. 5-54. 6-82 

 Willets Point. New York, 3-116. 3-124. 3-125 

 Wilmington, North Carolina, 3-117. 3-124. 3-125 

 Beach, 6-22 



D-18 



