SECTION PAGE 



2.22 WAVE FUNDAMENTALS AND CLASSIFICATION OF WAVES 2-3 



2.23 ELEMENTARY PROGRESSIVE WAVE THEORY 



(Small-Amplitude Wave Theory) 2-7 



2.231 Wave Celerity, Length and Period 2-7 



2.232 The Sinusoidal Wave Profile 2-10 



2.233 Some Useful Functions 2-10 



2.234 Local Fluid Velocities and Accelerations 2-12 



2.235 Water Particle Displacements 2-15 



2.236 Subsurface Pressure 2-22 



2.237 Velocity of a Wave Group 2-24 



2.238 Wave Energy and Power 2-27 



2.239 Summary - Linear Wave Theory 2-33 



2.24 HIGHER ORDER WAVE THEORIES 2-33 



2.25 STOKES' PROGRESSIVE, SECOND-ORDER WAVE THEORY 2-36 



2.251 Wave Celerity, Length and Surface Profile 2-37 



2.252 Water Particle Velocities and Displacements 2-37 



2.253 Mass Transport Velocity 2-38 



2.254 Subsurface Pressure 2-39 



2.255 Maximum Steepness of Progressive Waves 2-39 



2.256 Comparison of the First- and Second-Order Theories . . 2-39 



2.26 CNOIDAL WAVES 2-47 



2.27 SOLITARY WAVE THEORY 2-59 



2.28 STREAM FUNCTION WAVE THEORY 2-62 



2.3 WAVE REFRACTION 2-62 



2.31 INTRODUCTION 2-62 



2.32 GENERAL - REFRACTION BY BATHYMETRY 2-65 



2.321 Procedures in Refraction Diagram Construction - 



Orthogonal Method 2-69 



2.322 Procedure when a is Less than 80 Degrees 2-71 



2.323 Procedure when a is Greater than 80 Degrees - The 



R/J Method 2-73 



2.324 Refraction Fan Diagrams 2-73 



2.325 Other Graphical Methods of Refraction Analysis .... 2-75 



2.326 Computer Methods for Refraction Analysis 2-75 



2.327 Interpretation of Results and Diagram Limitations. . . 2-75 



2.328 Refraction of Ocean Waves 2-78 



2.4 WAVE DIFFRACTION 2-79 



2.41 INTRODUCTION 2-79 



2.42 DIFFRACTION CALCULATIONS 2-81 



2.421 Waves Passing a Single Breakwater 2-81 



2.422 Waves Passing a Gap of Width Less than Five 



Wavelengths at Normal Incidence 2-98 



2.423 Waves Passing a Gap of Width Greater than Five 



Wavelengths at Normal Incidence 2-98 



2.424 Diffraction at a Gap-Oblique Incidence 2-98 



2.43 REFRACTION AND DIFFRACTION COMBINED 2-98 



VI 



