PAGE 



SIZE ANALYSES 4-26 



Sieve Analysis 4-26 



Settling Tube 4-26 



LITTORAL WAVE CONDITIONS 4-27 



EFFECT OF WAVE CONDITIONS ON SEDIMENT TRANSPORT 4-27 



FACTORS DETERMINING LITTORAL WAVE CLIMATE 4-28 



Offshore Wave Climate 4-28 



Effect of Bottom Topography 4-28 



Winds and Storms 4-29 



INSHORE WA'/E CLIMATE 4-29 



Mean Value Data on U.S. Littoral Wave Climates .... 4-29 



Mean vs. Extreme Conditions 4-30 



OFFICE STUDY OF WAVE CLIMATE 4-35 



EFFECT OF EXTREME EVENTS 4-37 



NEARSHORE CURRENTS 4-39 



WAVE- INDUCED WATER MOTION , 4-39 



FLUID MOTION IN BREAKING WAVES 4-42 



ONSHORE-OFFSHORE CURRENTS 4-43 



Onshore-Offshore Exchange 4-43 



Diffuse Return Flow 4-45 



Rip Currents 4-45 



LONGSHORE CURRENTS 4-45 



Velocity and Flow Rate 4-45 



Velocity Prediction 4-48 



SUMMARY 4-50 



LITTORAL TRANSPORT 4-50 



INTRODUCTION 4-50 



Importance of Littoral Transport 4-50 



Zones of Transport 4-53 



Profiles 4-54 



Profile Accuracy 4-57 



ONSHORE- OFFSHORE TRANSPORT 4-60 



Sediment Effects 4-60 



Initiation of Sediment Motion 4-61 



Seaward Limit of Significant Transport 4-65 



Beach Erosion and Recovery 4-70 



Bar-Berm Prediction 4-78 



Slope of the Foreshore 4-85 



LONGSHORE TRANSPORT RATE 4-88 



Definitions and Methods 4-88 



Energy Flux Method 4-89 



Energy Flux Example (Method 3) 4-102 



Empirical Prediction of Gross Longshore Transport 



Rate (Method 4) 4-107 



4.535 Method 4 Example 4-108 



ix 



