LIST OF FIGURES 



FIGURE PAGE 



1-1 Beach Profile - Related Terms 1-3 



1-2 Sand Dunes Along the South Shore of Lake Michigan 1-4 



1-3 Sand Dunes, Honeyman State Park, Oregon 1-4 



1-4 Barrier Beach Island Developed as Recreation Park - Jones 



Beach State Park, Long Island, New York 1-6 



},-5 Large Waves Breaking Over a Breakwater 1-8 



1-6 Wave Characteristics 1-8 



1-7 Schematic Diagram of Storm Wave Attack on Beach and Dune . 1-11 



1-8 Backshore Damage at Sea Isle City, New Jersey 1-15 



1-9 Weir Jetty at Masonboro Inlet, North Carolina 1-19 



1-10 Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina, after Completion of 



Beach Restoration and Hurricane Protection Project . , . 1-20 



2-1 Approximate Distribution of Ocean Surface Wave Energy 



Illustrating the Classification of Surface Waves by 



Wave Band, Primary Disturbing Force and Primary 



Restoring Force 2-5 



2-2 Definition of Terms - Elementary, Sinusoidal, Progressive 



Wave 2-8 



2-3 Local Fluid Velocities and Accelerations 2-14 



2-4 Water Particle Displacements from Mean Position for 



Shallow- Water and Deepwater Waves 2-17 



2-5 Formation of Wave Groups by the Addition of Two Sinusoids 



Having Different Periods 2-26 



2-6 Summary - Linear (Airy) Wave Theory - Wave 



Characteristics 2-34 



2-7 Regions of Validity for Various Wave Theories 2-35 



2-8 Comparison of Second-Order Stokes' Profile with Linear 



Profile 2-42 



2-9 Cnoidal Wave Surface Profiles as a Function of k^ 2-50 



2-10 Cnoidal Wave Surface Profiles as a Func tion of k^ 2-51 



2-11 Relationship Between k^, H/d and T/g/d 2-52 



2-12 Relationship Between k^ and L^H/d^ 2-53 



2-13 Relationships Between k^ and L^H/d^ and Between (y^-d)/H, 



(y^ -d)/H)+ 1 and L^H/d^ 2-54 



2-14 Relationship Between T/g/d y^/d, H/y^ and L^H/d^ 2-55 



2-15 Relationship Between C/>/gy^, H/y^ and L^H/d^ 2-56 



2-16 Functions M and N in Solitary Wave Theory 2-61 



2-17 Wave Refraction at West Hampton Beach, Long Island, 



New York 2-64 



2-18 Refraction Template 2-68 



2-19 Changes in Wave Direction and Height Due to Refraction on 



Slopes with Straight, Parallel Depth Contours 2-70 



2-20 Use of the Refraction Template 2-72 



2-21 Refraction Diagram Using R/J Method 2-74 



2-22 Use of Fan-Type Refraction Diagram 2-76 



2-23 Refraction Along a Straight Beach with Parallel Bottom 



Contours 2-77 



XI 



