FIGURE PAGE 



3-57 Lake Surface Contours on Lake Okeechobee, Florida 



Hurricane, 26-27 August 1949 3-129 



3-58 Grid System 3-133 



3-59 Lake Erie 3-135 



3-60 Cross-Section Area and Surface Width - Lake Erie 3-136 



3-61 Mean Bottom Profile of Lake Erie 3-137 



3-62 Wind Speed and Direction for Lake Erie - Storm, March 1955. 3-158 

 3-63 Wind Setup Hydrograph for Buffalo and Toledo - Storm, 



March 1955 3-141 



3-64 Wind Setup Profile for Lake Erie - Storm, March 1955. . . . 3-142 



4-1 Typical Profile Changes with Time, Westhampton Beach, N.Y.. 4-2 



4-2 Three Types of Shoreline 4-3 



4-3 Shoreline Erosion near Shipbottom, N.J 4-7 



4-4 Shoreline Accretion and Erosion Near Beach Haven, N.J.. . . 4-8 



4-5 Stable Shoreline Near Peahala, N.J 4-9 



4-6 Fluctuations in Location of Mean Sea Level Shoreline on 



Seven East Coast Beaches 4-12 



4-7 Grain Size Scales 4-14 



4-8 Example Size Distribution 4-17 



4-9 Sand Size Distribution Along the U.S. Atlantic Coast. . . . 4-23 

 4-10 Mean Monthly Nearshore Wave Heights for Five Coastal 



Segments 4-31 



4-11 Mean Monthly Nearshore Wave Period for Five Coastal 



Segments 4-32 



4-12 Distribution of Significant Wave Heights from Coastal 



Wave Gages for 1-year Records 4-34 



4-13 Nearshore Current System Near LaJolla Canyon, California. . 4-44 



4-14 Typical Rip Currents, Ludlam Island, N.J 4-46 



4-15 Distribution of Longshore Current Velocities 4-47 



4-16 Measured versus Predicted Longshore Current Speed 4-49 



4-17 Coasts in the Vicinity of New York Bight 4-51 



4-18 Three Scales of Profiles, Westhampton, Long Island 4-55 



4-19 Unit Volume Change versus Time Between Surveys for Profiles 



on South Shore of Long Island 4-59 



4-20 Maximum Wave Induced Bottom Velocity as a Function of 



Relative Depth 4-62 



4-21 Maximum Bottom Velocity from Small Amplitude Theory .... 4-63 



4-22 Initiation of Ripple Motion 4-66 



4-23 Wave Conditions Producing Maximum Bottom Velocity of 



0.5 ft/sec 4-67 



4-24 Nearshore Bathymetry with Shore-Parallel Contours off 



Panama City, Florida 4-68 



4-25 Nearshore Bathymetry with Shore-Parallel Contours and 



Linear Bars off Manasquan, N.J 4-69 



4-26 Slow Accretion of Ridge-and-Runnel at Crane Beach, Mass.. . 4-76 



4-27 Rapid Accretion of Ridge-and-Runnel - Lake Michigan .... 4-77 

 4-28 Typical Berm and Bar Profiles from Prototype Size 



Laboratory Wave Tank 4-79 



XV 



