FIGURE PAGE 



4-29 Berra - Bar Criterion Based on Dimensionless Fall Time and 



Deep Water Steepness 4-82 



4-30 Berm - Bar Criterion Based on Dimensionless Fall Time and 



Height to Grain Size Ratio 4-83 



4-31 Fall Velocity of Quartz Spheres in Water as a Function of 



Diameter and Temperature 4-84 



4-32 Data Trends - Median Grain Size versus Foreshore Slope. . . 4-86 



4-33 Data - Median Grain Size versus Foreshore Slope 4-87 



4-34 Longshore Component of Wave Energy Flux in Dimensionless 



Form as a Function of Breaker Conditions 4-92 



4-35 Longshore Component of Wave Energy Flux as a Function of 



Deepwater Wave Conditions 4-94 



4-36 Transport Rate versus Energy Flux Factor for Field and 



Laboratory Conditions 4-99 



4-37 Relationship Between Wave Energy and Longshore Transport. . 4-100 

 4-38 Longshore Transport Rate as a Function of Breaker Height 



and Breaker Angle 4-103 



4-39 Longshore Transport Rate as a Function of Deepwater Wave 



Height and Deepwater Angle 4-104 



4-40 Upper Limit on Longshore Transport Rates 4-109 



4-41 Typical Barrier Island Profile Shape 4-112 



4-42 Event Frequency per 100 Years the Stated Level is Equalled 



or Exceeded on the Open Coast, South Padre Island, Texas. 4-114 



4-43 Basic Example of Sediment Budget 4-120 



4-44 Erosion Within Littoral Zone During Uniform Retreat of an 



Idealized Profile 4-122 



4-45 Sediment Trapped Inside Old Drum Inlet, N.C 4-125 



4-46 Overwash on Portsmouth Island, N.C 4-126 



4-47 Growth of a Spit in to Deep Water, Sandy Hook, N.J 4-128 



4-48 Dunes Migrating Inland Near Laguna Point, California. . , . 4-130 



4-49 Materials Budget for Littoral Zone 4-132 



4-50 Summary of Example Problem Conditions and Results 4-135 



4-51 Variation of y with Distance Along Spit 4-136 



4-52 Growth of Sandy Hook, N.J., 1835-1932 4-141 



4-53 Transport Directions at New Buffalo Harbor Jetty on 



Lake Michigan 4-142 



4-54 Sand Accumulation at Point Mugu, California 4-143 



4-55 Tombolo and Pocket Beach at Greyhound Rock, California. . . 4-144 

 4-56 A Nodal Zone of Divergence Illustrated by Sand Accumulation 



at Groins, South Shore Staten Island, N.Y 4-145 



4-57 South Shore of Long Island, N.Y., Showing Closed, 



Partially Closed and Open Inlets 4-146 



4-58 Four Types of Barrier Islands Offset 4-148 



4-59 Fire Island Inlet, New York - Overlapping Offset 4-149 



4-60 Old Drum Inlet, North Carolina - Negligible Offset 4-149 



XVI 



