LIST OF TABLES 



TABLE PAGE 



1-1 Shoreline Characteristics 1-3 



2-1 Distribution of Wave Heights in a Short Train of Waves. . . 2-32 

 2-2 Example Computations of Values of C,/C„ for Refraction 



Analysis 2-71 



3-1 Correction for Sea-Air Temperature 3-27 



3-2 Wind- Speed Adjustment, Nearshore 3-29 



3-3 Values of Kg or (H/H^) 3-63 



3-4 Computations for Wind Waves Over the Continental Shelf. . . 3-66 



3-5 Tidal Ranges 3-74 



3-6 Fluctuations in Water Levels - Great Lakes System 



(1860 through 1970) 3-76 



3-7 Short-Period Fluctuations in Lake Levels at Selected 



Gage Sites 3-78 



3-8 Highest and Lowest Water Levels 3-89 



3-9 Systems of Units for Storm Surge Computations 3-108 



3-10 Manual Surge Computations 3-116 



4-1 Seasonal Profile Changes on Southern California Beaches . . 4-10 



4-2 Density of Littoral Materials 4-19 



4-3 Minerals Occurring in Beach Sand 4-20 



4-4 Mean Wave Height at Coastal Localities of Conterminous 



United States 4-33 



4-5 Storm- Induced Beach Changes 4-72 



4-6 Longshore Transport Rates from U.S. Coasts 4-90 



4-7 Longshore Energy Flux ?i, for a Single Periodic Wave in 



Any Specified Depth 4-97 



4-8 Approximate Formulas for Computing Longshore Energy Flux 



Factor, Pj,g, Entering the Surf Zone 4-97 



4-9 Assumptions for P^g Formulas in Table 4-8 4-98 



4-10 Deepwater Wave Heights, in Percent by Direction, off East 



Facing Coast of Inland Sea 4-105 



4-11 Computed Longshore Transport for East - Facing Coast of 



Inland Sea 4-106 



4-12 Estimate of Gross Longshore Transport Rate for Shore of 



Inland Sea 4-110 



4-13 Classification of Elements in the Littoral Zone Sediment 



Budget 4-118 



4-14 Sand Budget of the Littoral Zone 4-133 



XVII 



