li^Mirc l-fi. Large Wuve:; lii'caking ovci- u lireakwater 



Oifi'clion of Wave Irovel 



Wove Crest -^ 



Crest Lcngtti 

 Region 



TrouQti Lcnqtii 

 Region 



■Stillwoler level 



d^ Oeptti 



Oceon Bottom- 





Figure 1-0. W.ivc Cliar.Kt c-ri sties 



1-8 



