Therefore, 



1-1 



2 n C 



and since from Equations 2-3 and 2-6 



C , /27Td^ 



— = tanh 



and from Equation 2-35 where 



47:d/L 



1 + 



sink (477 d/L) 



H 



1 



1 



tanh (27rd/L) 



1 + 



(47rd/L) 



sinh (4rrd/L) 



K. 



(2-44) 



where Kg or H/H^ is termed the shoaling coefficient. Values 

 of H/Hq as a function of d/Lo and d/L have been tabulated 

 in Tables C-1 and C-2 of Appendix C. 



(b) For the given wave, d/L^ = 10/512 = 0.01953. Either from Table 

 C-1 or from an evaluation of Equation 2-44 above. 



H 

 H 



7 = 1.233 



Therefore , 



H = 1.233(5) = 6.165 ft. 



(c) The rate at which energy is being transported toward shore is the 

 wave energy flux. 



P = - E^C = nEC . 

 2 o o 



Since it is easier to evaluate the energy flux in deep water, 

 the left side of the above equation will be used. 



- 1 - 1 PgCH^)' 51.2 1 64(5)^ 



P = - E^C = = 51.2 , 



2 " " 2 8 2 8 



P = 5120 



ft-lb 



sec 



per ft . of wave crest , 



P = 



5120 

 550 



9.31 horsepower per ft. of wave crest . 



2-30 



