hence, 



H^ = 1.05(5) = 5.25 feet, 

 and since, L^ = 5,12T^ (linear wave theory). 



% 5.25 



L 5.12(10)^ 



= 0.010 



o 



From Figure 2-65, entering with H^/L^ = 0.010 and intersecting the curve 

 for a slope of 1:20 (m = 0.05) results in H^/H^ = 1.65. Therefore 



H^ = 1.65(5.25) = 8.66 feet . 

 To determine the depth at breaking calculate: 



^b 8.66 



gT^ 32.2(10)2 

 and enter Figure 2-66 for m = 0.050. 



0.00269 , 



^b 



= 0.90 



Thus djy = 0.90 (8.66) =7.80 feet, and therefore the wave will break 

 when it is approximately 7.80/(0.05) = 156 feet from the shoreline, 

 assuming a constant nearshore slope. The initial value selected for 

 the refraction coefficient should now be checked to determine if it is 

 correct for the actual breaker location as found in the. solution. If 

 necessary, a corrected value for the refraction coefficient should be 

 used and the breaker height recomputed. The example wave will result 

 in a plunging breaker. (See Figure 2-65.) 



2-127 



