> 



BEACH BOTTOM 



BE»CM IS USUALLY VERY FLAT 



SPILLING BREAKER 



SKETCH SHOWING THE GENERAL CHARACTER 

 OF SPILLING BREAKERS 



BREAKING 



POINT 



BEACH IS USUALLY STEEP 



PLUNGING BREAKER 



SKETCH SHOWING THE GENERAL CHARACTER 

 OF PLUNGING BREAKERS 



^ 



BEACH IS USUALLY VERY STEEP 



SURGING BREAKER 



SKETCH SHOWING THE GENERAL CHARACTER 

 OF SURGING BREAKERS 



Both photographs and diagrams of the three types of breakers are 

 presented above. The sketches consist of a series of profiles of the 

 wave form as it appears before breaking , during breaking and after 

 breaking. The numbers opposite the profile lines indicate the relative 

 times of occurences. 



(Wiegel,l953) 



Figure A-4. Breaker Types. 



I 



A-47 



