GUIDE FOR USE OF TABLES C-1 AND C-2 



ratio of the depth of water at any specific location to the wave 

 length in deep water. 



d 

 L 



ratio of the depth of water at any specific location to the wave 

 length at that same location. 





ratio of the wave height in shallow water to what its wave height 

 would have been in deep water if unaffected by refraction. 



JH 



1 1 



2 ° n 



1 



Vc, 



= K (shoaling coefficient) 



K = a pressure response factor used in connection with underwater 

 pressure instruments, where 



K 



H 



cosh [2-cl/^ (1 + 7^)1 cosh [2- (d + z)/J 



; — .~r\ or ■ — -——^ 



c„,h(2''<'/J 



cosh p'%) 



where P is the pressure fluctuation at a depth z measured 

 negatively below Stillwater, ?q is the surface pressure fluctua- 

 tion, d is the depth of water from Stillwater level to the ocean 

 bottom, L is the wavelength in any particular depth of water, 

 and H is the corresponding variation of head at a depth z. The 

 values of K shown in the tables are for the instrument placed on 

 the bottom using the equation when z = - d. 



K = 



cosh M^) 



values tabulated in column 8 



the fraction of wave energy that travels forward with the wave 

 form: i.e., with the wave velocity C rather than the group 

 velocity Q.q. 



1 

 n = — 

 2 



1 + 



47rd/^ 



sinh (^'rd/J 



C 



C-3 



