Padre Island, Texas . . . 4-112, 4-113, 4-114, 4-115, 4-129 



4-142, 6-39, 6-40, 6-41, 6-49, 6-51, 6-52, 6-54 



Palm Beach, Florida 4-90, 5-9 



Panama City, Florida 4-68 



Panic beach grasses 6-43 



Partially arisen sea 3-34 



Pass Christian, Mississippi 3-92, 3-118, 3-126 



Passive earth force 7-209 



Peahala, New Jersey 4-9 



Peak surge 3-97 



Peat 4-20 



Pensacola, Florida 3-72 



Percolation 2-66,3-42, 3-46 



Perdido Pass, Alabama 4-90, 6-59, 6-65, 6-68 



Period 



tidal 1-5, A-38 



wave (see Wave period) 



Permeable groins 5-32, 5-33 



Phase velocity (see also Wave, celerity) 2-7, A-26 



Phi units 4-13 



Phi conversion to millimeters C-45 



Piles 



breaking wave forces 7-121, 7-124, 7-126 



bulkheads 6-6 



nonbreaking wave forces . . . 7-64, 7-114, 7-121, 7-125 



sheet 6-76, 6-88, 6-93 



wave forces 7-64 



Pile group 



wave forces 7-114 



Pioneer Point, Cambridge, Maryland 6-10 



Pismo Beach, CaUfornia 4-129 



Planning analysis 



case study 8-1 



environmental considerations 5-57 



P-N-J Wave Forecasting Method (see also Forecasting; 



Wave prediction) 3-34 



Pocket beach 4-1, 4-3 



Point Arguello, California 4-129 



Point Barrow, Alaska 4-38 



Point Conception, California 4-151 



Point Mugu, California 4-10, 4-127, 4-142, 4-143 



Point Reyes, California 4-10 



Point Sur, California 4-10 



Pompano Beach, Florida 6-16 



Ponce de Leon Inlet, Florida 6-59, 6-72 



Poorly-graded sediment 4-15 



Poorly-sorted sediment 4-15 



Porosity of armor units 7-196, 7-197 



Port Hueneme, CaUfornia . . 1-17, 4-90, 5-25, 5-52, 6-59, 



6-60 



Port Sanilac, Michigan 6-93, 6-94 



Portsmouth Island, North Carolina 4-126 



Potential energy (waves) 2-27, A-27 



Power (see also Wave energy ) 



longshore (wave) 4-89, 8-110, 8-111 



wave 2-27, 2-66 



wave train 2-28 



Precast concrete armor units (see also Armor units) 



7-170, 7-180, 8-68 



akmon 7-183 



Precast concrete armor units— Continued 



dolos 7-170, 7-182, 7-183, 7-188, 7-192, 7-196 



hexapod 7-170, 7-182, 7-183, 7-190, 7-196 



hollow square 7-183 



hollow tetrahedron 7-183 



interlocking blocks 6-6, 6-12 



modified cube 7-170, 7-182, 7-183, 7-189, 7-196 



quadripod . . . 6-85, 7-170, 7-182, 7-183, 7-186, 7-192, 



7-196 



stabit 7-183 



svee-block 7-183 



tetrapod 5-50, 6-90, 7-170, 7-182, 7-183, 7-185, 



7-192, 7-196, 8-68, 8-71 



tribar . . 5-50, 6-91, 7-170, 7-182, 7-183, 7-187, 7-192, 



7-196, 8-68, 8-70 



Prediction, Wave (see Wave prediction) 



Presque Isle, Pennsylvania 6-80 



Pressure 



breaking waves on wall 7-145 



broken wave on wall 7-158, 7-160 



effect of angle of approach 7-164 



effect of face slope 7-164 



nonbreaking waves on wall 7-129 



subsurface 



Airy Theory 2-22 



Cnoidal Theory 2-48 



Solitary Theory 2-60 



Stokes Theory 2-39 



Pressure gradient 3-21 



Pressure pulse 3-15 



Pressure response factor 2-22, C-3 



Pria, Terceria, Azores 7-197 



Probable Maximum Hurricane (PMH) 3-100, A-18 



Probable maximum wave 3-62, 8-54 



hurricane 3-62 



Profile 



accuracy 4-57 



beach or shore (see also Beach profile; Dunes, profile) 

 . 1-3, 4-1, 4-2, 4-6, 4-54, 4-55, 4-56, 4-70, 4-147, A-45 



groin 5-39, 5-40, 5-42 



bottom 3-114, 3-137, 8-8, 8-9 



closure error 4-57 



dune construction 



beachgrass 6-47, 6-48, 6-49, 6-50, 6-53 



sand fence 6-40, 6-41 



nearshore 4-54, 4-55, 4-56 



shelf 4-54, 4-55, 4-56 



sounding error 4-57 



spacing error 4-57 



temporal variations 4-58 



Profile (wave) 2-8, 2-42, 2-114, 2-121 



group 2-26 



Progressive wave 2-4, A-27 



Protective beach (see also Artificial beach nourishment; 

 Beach; Dunes) .1-2, 4-70, 4-71, 4-75, 4-78, 4-113, 4-115, 



5-7, 5-19, 5-21, 6-16, 8-129 



artificial nourishment 1-18, 5-7,6-16, 6-17 



backshore protection 1-2, 1-14, 4-71,4-78, 5-19 



beach fiU slope 5-20, 6-17, 6-29 



berm elevation 5-19 



berm width 5-19 



c 



€ 



€ 



D-8 



