w- 



Wave— Continued 



diffraction (see Wave diffraction) 



dispersive 2-27 



effects 2-1 



general 2-1 



on beaches 1-10, 1-11, 4-37, 4-115 



energy (see also Wave energy) 2-27 



energy spectra 3-11, 3-53 



Finite Amplitude Theory (see also Wave, Trochiodal 



Theory; Wave, Stokes Theory) ... 2-3, 2-6, 2-7, 2-36 

 First-Order Theory (see Wave, Airy Theory) 

 frequency 2-4 



angular 2-9, 3-33 



frequency of occurrence 4-110, 8-35, 8-36 



fully arisen sea 3-34 



general introduction 2-1 



generation 3-15 



pressure pulse 3-15 



gravity waves (defined) 2-4, A-15 



internal A-18 



seas 1-7, 2-4, 3-34 



swell 1-7, 2-4, 3-34 



group velocity 2-24, A-15 



height (see Wave height) 



hurricane 3-52, 3-57, 8-53 



probable maximum wave 3-61, 8-54 



internal A-18 



irrotational A-18 



kinetic energy 2-27 



lengtli (see Wavelength) 



Linear Theory (see Wave, Airy Theory) 



mass transport 2-4, 2-38, 4-4, 4-42, A-21 



Michell Theory (maximum deepwater steepness) 



2-39, 2-120 



monochromatic A-23 



nonbreaking 



forces on piles 7-64 



forces on walls 7-127 



nonlinear deformation 4-28 



Nonlinear Theory (see Wave, Finite Amplitude 



Theory) 

 Oscillatory Theory (see also Wave, Airy Theory) 



1-7, 2-4, A-25 



period (see Wave period) 



periodic 2-4 



phase velocity (see also Wave, celerity) 2-7 



potential energy 2-27, A-27 



prediction (see Wave prediction) 

 pressure (see Wave pressure) 



pressure pulse wave generation 3-15 



profile 2-8, 2-42, 2-114, 2-121 



group 2-26 



progressive 2-4, A-27 



refraction (see Wave refraction) 



resonant 2-115 



seas 1-7, 2-4 



fully arisen sea 3-34 



shaUow water (defined) 2-9, A-32 



shoaling effects 2-121, 4-28 



significant 3-2, 7-1, A-33 



simple 2-4 



Continued 



Wave —Continued 



Sinusoidal Theory (sec also Wave, Airy Theory) . . . 2-4 

 Small- Amphtude Theory (see also Wave, 



Airy Theory) 2-2, 2-6 



Solitary Theory 2-2, 2-3, 2-59, A-34 



standing (see also ClapotLs; Seiche) 2-4, 2-113, 



3-78, A-36 



stationary (see also Standing wave) A-36 



statistics 3-5, 3-9, 4-4, 4-35, 4-36, 8-47 



steepness 2-39, 2-120, 2-121 



maximum (for progressive) 2-39, 2-120 



Stokes Theory 2-2, 2-3, 2-36 



profUe 2-37, 2-41, 2-42 



Stream Function Theory 2-62 



sweU 1-7, 2-4, 3-34, 3-42, 3-45 



theories (see Wave Theories) 



transitional 2-9, A-40 



translatory 2-4, A-43 



Trochoidal Theory 2-3, A-40 



tsunami 1-7, 3-69, 3-70, 3-71, A-32, A40 



typical 3-2, 3-3 



variability 3-5, A-41 



velocity (see Wave, celerity) 



wind generated 1-5, 2-1, 2-2, 3-15, 3-33, 4-29 



Wave attack 1-5, 1-11, 4-29,4-37, 4-70, 4-71, 4-115 



5-21 



protection from 5-49 



Wave climate (see also Wave conditions) . 4-27, 4-28, 4-38 



effect on beaches 4-27 



nearshore 4-29 



offshore 4-28 



prediction (see also Wave prediction) 4-35, 4-36 



Wave conditions (see also Wave climate) 4-28 



Wave crest height (above SWL) 7-71 



Wave data (recording) 3-2, 3-3, 7-2 



Wave decay 1-7, 3-17, 3-42, 3-52, A-10 



deep water 3-42 



restricted areas 3-52 



Wave diffraction 2-79, 8-93, A-10 



calculations, single breakwater 2-81, 8-93 



calculations, small gaps 2-98 



Wave direction C-35 



Wave energy 2-27, 3-11 



average 2-27, 3-5 



distribution by frequency (surf waves) 2-5 



kinetic 2-27 



longshore component 4-89, 8-107, 8-111, 8-122 



potential 2-27 



related to wavelength and wave height C-34 



spectra 3-11, 3-53 



total (oscillatory wave) 2-27 



total (solitary) 2-60 



transmission 2-27, 2-33, 2-66 



Wave field decay 3-17 



Wave forces 7-63 



effect of face slope 7-164 



incident wave angle 7-164 



Miche-Rundgren Theory 7-127, 7-128 



Minikin Theory 7-146 



nonvertical walls 7-164 



D-13 



