W — Continued 



Wave forces (breaking) 7-1, 7-63 



pUes 7-124 



walls 7-145, 7-146 



Minikin Theory 7-146 



walls of low height 7-152 



walls on rubble foundation 7-152 



Wave forces (broken) 7-1, 7-63, 7-157 



Wave forces (nonbreaking) 7-1, 7-63 



caisson 8-96 



piles 7-64, 7-121, 7-125 



pile group 7-114 



walls 7-127, 8-96 



walls of low height 7-139 



walls on rubble foundation 7-142 



Wave forecasting (see Wave prediction; Forecasting; 

 Hindcasting) 



Wave height 1-7, A-42, A-46 



average 3-10 



average of highest 1 percent 8-10, 3-11 



average of highest 10 percent 3-10, 3-11 



breaking (see also Breaking wave) . . . 2-35, 2-60, 2-62, 



2-120, 2-121, 7-2, 7-8, 7-81 



breaking height limits 7-81 



clapotis 7-128 



crest height above Stillwater 7-71 



design height . . 4-29, 4-30, 7-2, 7-3, 7-177, 7-201, 8-63 



distribution 3-5, 3-7, 3-8, 3-9, 4-34, 8-38, 8-39 



finite amphtude effects 7-71 



hurricane 3-57 



mean 3-10, 4-33 



mean armual (examples) 4-33 



Mitchell Theory 2-39,2-120 



nonbreaking height limits 7-81 



probable maximum 3-61 



hurricane 3-61 



Rayleigh distribution 3-5, 4-30 



root-mean-square height 3-5 



significant 3-2, 3-10, 3-11, 4-34, 7-1, A-33 



distribution 4-34, 4-35 



hurricane 3-57 



standing wave 7-128 



statistics 3-5, 3-9, 4-4, 4-35, 4-36, 8-47 



variability 3-5, A-41 



Wave hindcasting (see Wave prediction; Forecasting; 

 Hindcasting) 



Wavelength . 1-7, 2-7, 2-37, 2-48, A-20, A-42, A-46, C-30 



finite amplitude effects 7-72 



related to depth C-31, C-32 



relative wavelength 7-68 



Wave number 2-9 



Wave overtopping 4-113, 7-37, A-25 



graphic relationship (empirical) . . 7-40 



rubble structure 7-192 



Wave period 1-7, 2-4, 2-9, 3-2, A-42 



hurricane 3-58 



related to depth and wavelength C-31, C-32 



related to velocity and depth C-33 



related to wavelength and velocity C-30 



significant 3-2, A-33 



Wave power 2-27, 2-66 



Wave prediction 3-1, 3-15, 3-20, 4-35, 4-36 



deepwater areas 3-34, 3-35, 3-57 



fetch 1-7, 3-27, 3-29, 3-34, 3-38, 3-40, 3-54, 3-65, 



8-26, 8-27, A-13 



forecasting 3-1, 3-34, 3-35, 3-57 



hindcasting 3-1, 4-36, 7-2, 8-37, A-16 



hurricanes 3-52, 3-57, 8-53 



P-N-J Method 3-34 



shallow water 3-42, 8-26, 8-30 



simplified 3-33 



S-M-B Method 3-34 



Wave Spectra Method 3-11, 3-13 



wind duration 3-34 



Wave pressure 

 subsurface 



Airy Theory 2-22 



Cnoidal Theory 2-48 



SoUtary Theory 2-60 



Stokes Theory 2-39 



Wave reflection 2-110, 7-127, A-28 



beaches 2-117 



enclosed basin 2-115, 3-78 



reflection coefficient 2-110, 7-127 



vertical walls 2-113, 7-127 



Wave refraction 2-29, 2-62, 2-65, 2-77, 2-98, 2-111, 



4-28, 7-12, 7-13, 8-41, A-28, C-35 



analysis (example) 8-37, 8-45, 8-46 



computer analysis 2-75 



fan diagrams 2-73, 7-13 



Orthogonal Method 2-69 



refraction coefficient 2-67, 2-70, 8-41, A-28 



refraction template 2-68 



R/J Method 2-73 



Template Method 2-71 



Wave-Front Method 2-75 



Wave runup 4-113, 7-15, A-30 



composite slopes 7-33 



definition 7-15, A-30 



graphic relationship (empirical) 7-17, 7-18 



rubble structure 7-192 



scale effects 7-17, 7-23 



Wave setdown 3-81 



Wave setup .' 3-69, 3-70, 3-80, A-32 



Wave spectra (energy) 3-11 



Wave Spectra Method (wave prediction) 3-11, 3-13 



Wave steepness (see Wave, steepness) 



Wave theories 



regions of validity 2-33, 2-35, 7-81 



Airy 2-2, 2-4, 2-6, 2-7, 2-34, 4-40 



cnoidal 2-2, 2-3, 2-47, A-6 



cycloidal (see also Trochidal) A-9 



finite amplitude (see also Trochoidal ; Stokes) .... 2-3, 



2-6, 2-7, 2-36, 7-70, 7-71, 7-72 



first-order (see Airy) 



linear (see Airy) 



nonlinear (see Finite amplitude) 



oscillatory (see Airy) 



sinusoidal (see Airy) 



small-amplitude (see Airy) 



D-14 



