profiles run for 80 hours or more with wave periods similar to those used in 
this experiment, the shore-normal profile in Figure 6 was drawn as a compro- 
mise or average through the superposed profiles. This profile was used to 
lessen the onshore-offshore adjustment of the beach. 
Figure 7 shows the coordinate system used for the test beache The origin 
is at the updrift, shoreward corner of the beach. Ranges (in meters) are 
along the alongshore axis, and stations (in meters) along the shore-normal 
axis. Any point on the beach, or in the basin, can be described by a range- 
station pair. 
Range (m) 
4 
14 12 10 8 6 2 0 -2 -4 -6 
Rubble Backbeach 
Test Beach Updrift 
Concrete 
Apron 
Station (m) 
Downadrift 
Concrete 
Apron 
| R 3.80, S Breaker Line) 
Tests 12-15 
@ 
Gage 4A 
(R 3.80,5 6.00) 
Tests 5-I1° 
Sand Trap 
Gage 3 
(R 3.80, $9.00) MY 
Tests 5-15 
80 60 40 20 0 12 
Water Depth (cm) ¢ A 
Gage 2 Gage 
(R 3.80, $12.50) (R0.00, $12.50) 
All Tests All Tests 
Figure 7. Coordinate system used for test beach with locations 
of wave gages (R = range, S = station). 
2. Generators. 
The three piston-type 6-10 meter-long generators used in this experiment 
produced only monochromatic waves and are discussed in Stafford and Chesnutt 
(1977). The generators were set at four different angles--0°, 10°, 20°, and 
30°--to the beach during the experimente For each setting, an updrift train- 
ing wall was built from the generator to the 1-foot depth. This allowed 
circulation past the wall to feed the longshore current. Figure 2 shows the 
setup of the four generators and training wall. 
For the 10° and 20° tests, the training wall was curved to allow for wave 
refraction. However, since the wall stopped at the l-foot depth, the curves 
20 
